How to train big dogs

Educating or training a dog can be different depending on the breed; some have a tendency to pay attention, others to get distracted. However, regardless of how long it takes for them to learn, all dogs must be trained following the same principles, which will allow them to interact with others and stay safe in their daily activities.

In this AnimalWised article we’ll share some general tips to train a mixed-breed dog. All dogs are capable of learning, and mixed-breed or crossbred or designer dogs do not have more difficulties than pedigree dogs. A dog’s struggle to pay attention and learn depends on their genetic code, individual personality and environment. Read on!

Training a mixed-breed puppy

To begin with, a puppy of any dog breed or type should be socialized during the early stages of their life. This should be done right after they have got all of their vaccinations. At this point you should allow your puppy to interact with other sociable dogs so they can learn how to behave and play with them. It is very important to prevent future behavioral problems.

In the same way, you should allow your puppy to play with other people and go on walks so they can discover the environment. This process should be carried out gradually, but it’s a very good way to make sure that your dog isn’t scared of things.

This is a good time to teach your mixed-breed puppy other necessary abilities such as urinating in the street, playing with teething toys or staying home alone, among others. It is essential for the whole family to be involved in the dog’s training or, at least, to understand what the dog’s limits are. You should all be consistent on whether the puppy can jump on the sofa or not, etc.

Providing lots of love and care is the main thing at this point. Remember that puppies of all breeds and types take a while to learn things.

Training an adult mixed-breed dog

Even when adopted as an adult, dogs of all breeds must learn basic training commands, including:

It is very important to dedicate enough time to training your dog. This will be essential in preventing accidents and keeping the dog safe. However, it will also be important to strengthen your relationship with your pet and to avoid unwanted behaviors such as over-protection.

Dedicate 10 to 15 minutes every day to training your mixed-breed dog. More time may overload the dog with information. Always use positive reinforcement so that your dog knows what they are doing is right. Training should be a fun activity for both of you. Don’t worry if your dog doesn’t pick things up quickly, just keep repeating it.

Training your dog to go for walks

You should walk your dog at least 2 to 3 times a day to keep them in shape, allowing them to sniff, urinate and exercise as often as they needs. Lots of people don’t understand that a walk is the “dog’s own time”, and try to stop them from pulling the lead with harsh tugs. This is a poor attitude. Consider the most common things you do wrong when you walk your dog and try to avoid them; you will see how your dog’s attitude improves little by little.

It is also essential to properly communicate with your dog. To do this, you should go over some basic training tricks that can help improve communication between you and your dog.

Advanced training for mixed-breed dogs

Once you have a good relationship with your dog and they have learnt the basic commands, you can start considering advanced training to make your dog feel useful and mentally stimulated. Advanced training is very beneficial for dogs of all ages and types, and you’ll have the time of your life showing your pet new tricks.

Unlike pedigree standard contests, mixed-breed and crossbred dogs can participate in all dog sports, including Agility and Canicross.

Fun and games

Of course, fun and games help your dog be happy and feel at ease, which in turn helps in keeping them healthy. Playing ball games, doing exercise or teaching them some intelligence games at home are great, highly recommended ideas. Don’t let your dog spend the day sleeping and doing nothing.

Turn to a professional if necessary

Dogs can suffer from behavioral problems if they’re suffering from trauma, if they haven’t been properly socialized or if they’re suffering from severe stress.

In this case, it is imperative to go to a professional who can treat this. Why? Many people “diagnose” their dog’s problems themselves: this is a serious error. What these people don’t know is that they might be misreading the warning signs that their dog is sending them, and applying the wrong treatment can make the situation much worse. Of course, you should do your own research, but never act on it without proper preparation.

Canine ethologists and dog trainers are the main people to help you in this case – don’t penny pinch if your dog’s health and happiness are at stake.

As you can see, there is no difference in training between mixed-breeds and pedigree dogs. Make an effort to give your pet lots of love and a positive training. In return, you will receive a lifelong faithful companion.

AnimalWised congratulates you for not being hung up on the breed and adopting a dog regardless of their look or origins. Best of luck!

If you want to read similar articles to Tips to Train a Mixed-Breed Dog, we recommend you visit our Basic education category.

Illustration: The Spruce / Madelyn Goodnight

Are you ready to start training your dog or puppy? Proper training and socialization are among your dog’s basic needs. It’s important to start training your dog as soon as possible.

At first, dog training can seem pretty overwhelming, especially if this is your first dog. The truth is that training your dog is a very big project. If you take it step by step, you will find the task to be far less daunting. Here is some information to help get you started:

• Start a Dog Obedience Program: Learn how to set a basic foundation before you begin to train your dog.
• Train Your Dog Using Games: Training your dog should be fun! Everyone knows it’s easier to learn when you are having a good time, so try implementing some games into your dog training regimen.
• Six Weeks to a Well-Trained Dog: Using this schedule as a guide, you can teach your dog the basics in about six weeks.
• Positive Reinforcement: There are many different ways to train a dog, but most dog professionals agree that the positive way is the best for both the dog and trainer.

Watch Now: How to Train Your Dog With Positive Reinforcement

Need help with dog training? Consider getting help from a dog trainer. Try group classes and/or private lessons, and check here for tips on affordable dog training.

House Training and Crate Training

Unless you plan to keep your dog outdoors–and few of us do because it’s not recommended–you’ll need to teach your dog where to eliminate. Therefore, house training (also called housebreaking or potty training) is one of the first things you need to work on with your dog. Crate training can be a very helpful part of the training process. This includes house training as well as many other areas of training:

• Crate Training Dogs and Puppies: Here are the basics of training your dog or puppy to accept and even enjoy the crate. Not only will it help with housebreaking, but it will also give your dog a place of his own.
• How to House Train your Dog: When it comes down to it, house training is not that complicated, but this doesn’t mean it’s easy. Consistency and diligence are key during the housebreaking process.
• Submissive/Excitement Urination in Dogs: If your dog is still having accidents in the house, it may be more than a simple housebreaking issue. Your dog might urinate out of excitement or to express submissive behavior.

Leash Training Dogs and Puppies

Every dog needs to learn to walk on a leash. Besides the fact that most areas have leash laws, there will be times when keeping your dog on a leash is for his own safety. Learn how to introduce your dog or puppy to the leash, then teach him how to walk properly on the leash, even beside you on a bike. A loose leash walk teaches your dog not to pull or lunge when on ​the leash, making the experience more enjoyable for both you and your dog.

How To Socialize Dogs and Puppies

Socialization means training your puppy or adult dog to accept new people, animals, and various places by exposing him to these things. Socialized dogs are less likely to develop behavior problems and are generally more welcomed by others. Socialization can also help prevent the development of fears and phobias.

The bottom line is that socializing your dog or puppy will make him a happier, more well-behaved dog.

Clicker Training for Dogs

Clicker training, a common form of positive reinforcement, is a simple and effective dog training method. Although it is still fine to train your dog without clicker training, many people find it helpful. With clicker training, you can easily and effectively teach your dog all kinds of basic and advanced commands and tricks. It’s fast and easy to learn how to clicker train your dog

Basic Commands and Fun Tricks

There are some basic dog training commands and dog tricks that every dog should know like come, speak, drop it, stay, back up, etc. Basic commands give your dog structure. In addition, they can help you overcome common dog behavior problems and will help keep your dog safe.

How to Train Your Dog to Stay

What’s more fun than showing off your dog’s cool tricks?! Dog tricks are a great way to take your dog training to the next level and give your dog some mental stimulation.

Proofing Behaviors and Troubleshooting

Proofing is the last step in training your dog to do any new behavior. Learn how to proof behaviors so your dog will be as obedient at the park or a friend’s house is he is in your own living room.

Remember, just because you have reached the final stages of training, it doesn’t mean that behavior problems won’t crop up. Learn about the most common dog behavior problems and how to deal with them. These guides will help you navigate this part of the training process:

• Proofing Behaviors: Practice behaviors in a variety of situations with different levels of distraction. Without proofing, your dog may behave well in your living room, but seem to forget all his training when he is outside the house.
• Teach Your Dog Self-Control: This method teaches your dog that nothing in life is free, but that he needs to earn things like food and attention through obedience.
• Common Dog Behavior Problems: Understanding potential behavior issues can help you detect and address them before things get out of control.
• Dog Behavior Management Versus Dog Training: While dog behavior management and dog training are two different things, they are not mutually exclusive. Behavior management is an important part of any dog training program.

Advanced Dog Training

Once your dog has mastered all the basics, you can consider moving on to more advanced tricks. These activities will help keep your dog active, fit and mentally stimulated. Plus, they will help strengthen the bond you share with your canine companion.

Remember that training is an ongoing process. You will never be completely finished. It is important to keep working on obedience training throughout the life of your dog. People who learn a language at a young age but stop speaking that language may forget much of it as they grow older. The same goes for your dog: use it or lose it. Running through even the most basic tricks and commands will help them stay fresh in your dog’s mind. Plus, it’s a great way to spend time with your dog.

The first moment I met my 8-week-old Leonberger puppy, Miss Emily von Alpensee, she took one look at me and peed on the floor.

I used that opportunity to open a conversation with the breeder about housetraining.

“Oh, it’s easy,” the breeder said. “Leonbergers get it very quickly. As soon as you see the puppy circling and scratching, pick her up and take her outside.”

I paused, thinking about how this would work, given our unique situation.

“We live on the 15th floor of a high-rise,” I told her.

She pondered a few moments, then gave her advice.

“Good luck,” was all she could offer.

So, Emily and I set off into a strange, terrifying, uncharted sea, at least where housetraining was concerned. There are rules that apply for big puppies in homes with yards and rules for tiny puppies living in apartments. But housetraining an oversized pup in an undersized urban studio would take a little creativity and a great deal of patience and humor.

Housetraining Resources

My first step was to hit the Internet and the library for guidance. Most modern training manuals will have a chapter or two devoted to the topic. Recently, there have also been whole books about it, some more than 200 pages long, such as:

Many trainers offer classes on housetraining, in addition to offering puppy socialization classes.

Beyond that, there are dozens of products, such as piddle pads, potty bells, and various kinds of scents, sprays, and enzymatic cleaners to help make the process smoother.

Who would believe that the simple act of teaching your dog to refrain from, as McCullough put it, turning “your nicely decorated home into a canine outhouse” could be so complicated?

Housetraining Triumph

How long did it take before Emily got the idea? It was only a couple of weeks before she started crying when she had to go, but since I couldn’t get her down to the street quickly enough, we had several accidents. Also, she had trouble generalizing what she learned in the apartment to the many places and situations that, like many urban dogs, she had to deal with. It wasn’t just a matter of distinguishing between house and yard. She had to learn to control herself in:

• her crate,
• the apartment,
• the hallway,
• the elevator,
• the building lobby,
• the stroller that I used to take her to the office (management wouldn’t allow her to walk through the lobby),
• the office, and
• the sidewalk (It is good manners to have a city dog do her business in the gutter).

If you approach it with an upbeat attitude and humor, you may one day look back on this period of intense sleep deprivation with a smile. I cherish the memories of being out with Emily at 1, 2, and 3 a.m., alone on the city streets except for an occasional taxi, other puppy owner, and, every so often, a drunk staggering home from a bar who would cheer for Emi’s progress as enthusiastically as I did.

It was rough and messy, and I was about to plunge into a state of despair, when the trainer in our puppy socialization class (where Emily peed a few times on the floor) gave me a gift — a sheet with lines drawn for every half hour of the day and eight columns: Place, Food, Water, Activity, Pee, Poop, Accidents, and Notes.

Below is a complete list of the easiest to train small dogs. This means these small dogs will become responsive to your commands rather quickly.

These small dogs will respond quickly to “sit”, “wait”, “come here” and many more commands and will learn all your house rules in speedy time.

To get your dog trained up quickly with ease you should set aside around 20 to 30 minutes a day to devote to training your dog. Dogs learn easiest when the training is fun and when you reward them, do not over command too much from them at first.

These are the Easiest to Train Small Dogs

Easiest Way to Train a Small Dog

As you would expect training a small dog is a little different to training a big dog. Some worries owners might have for small dogs include them chewing and possibly swallowing things around the house other than their food.

• Always reward your dog when they do something right.
• Get down to your dogs level, this is important with small dogs.
• Small dogs require a light collar and lead, heavy leather collars and chains are not practical.
• Train your dog with a command (a voice signal) that they know you use for certain actions like picking them up.
• When training small dogs to lie down you should do this on suitable flooring. Soft carpet is always good.
• Introduce your dog to other people bit by bit, if they seem scared then don’t push them into it.
• Let your dog know that they have done something wrong. Have a word that you say so that they know.
• To let your dog know who is in charge, you must always leave a room or go upstairs before your dog. Do not let your dog run in front of you.
• Do not let your small dog order you to be put down or picked up until they are trained to understand your commands and household rules. Only ever put your dog down when they are quiet and behaving as they should in your arms.

The more you spend training and rewarding your small dog the better they will behave and do what you expect of them.

You should however be careful how often you choose to punish your dog because small dog breeds can become very aggressive if it is too often.

Because of this many small dog owners tend to be a little less strict with their dogs following their house rules, which of course is a big mistake, one you should not make.

When you train a small dog you really do have to stick to your routine and be prepared to reward and punish accordingly, if you let some bad behaviour go just once you are sending mixed signals to your dog, try not to confuse them.

If your rules change every now and again you are going to make it hard work for yourself to train your small dog.

It’s all well and good to train your dog to behave but you must always set aside time to play with them too. Small dogs that have owners that play with them on a daily basis do behave better.

So how can play time with your dog help you train them. Well if you give your dog attention and time that they enjoy with you then your dog will in return be more responsive to you when training them.

If you do not spend time to train and play with your small dog you are more than likely going to get an unfriendly aggressive little dog, you will then need an expert to change this, which could well become expensive.

Learn how to build your small dog’s confidence and lessen the chances that she’ll be nervous and barky.

Last year, I did an article about small-dog stereotypes. You know–little dogs are yappy, they’re skittish, they’re big old prima donnas in tiny suits. I suggested some reasons small dogs might act this way and offered suggestions for helping them. Recently, I came across a research paper on small-dog behavior. Whether you’ve got a Chihuahua or a Great Dane, the findings have something to offer you.

How Best to Train Small Dogs

A group of scientists led by Dr. Christine Arhant of the University of Veterinary Medicine Vienna surveyed nearly 1,300 of the city’s dog owners about many aspects of both human and dog behavior. I’ll discuss just a few points here–for more, see the Notes section, below. (1) Dr. Arhant’s team asked how much the guardians trained using punishment, such as collar jerks, alpha rolls, and shaker cans, and how much they used rewards, including praise, petting, food, and play.

The guardians were asked about consistency–basically, did they set rules for the dogs and stick to them? Did they sometimes allow the dog to break the rules, or did they always respond the same way to infractions? Note that this wasn’t about whether the guardian was harsh or gentle–just about whether he or she was predictable.

Dr. Arhant’s team also assessed the dogs’ behavior–how obedient were the dogs, and how aggressive, excitable, or nervous were they?

How Dog Owners Treat Their Dogs

Large-dog owners and small-dog owners reported that they used punishment and reward at about the same rates. And for both large and small dogs, the higher the proportion of reward-based training, the better the obedience, the lower the aggression and anxiety. Conversely, for both groups of dogs, punishment and aggression were related. That result fits with other studies that link punishment-based training with aggression. (2) But the relationship between punishment and aggression was stronger in small dogs, and only in small dogs was punishment related to anxiety scores.

The Viennese researchers came up with a striking idea about why punishment, aggression, and anxiety might be more strongly linked in small dogs than in big dogs. It turned out that among the people surveyed, the small-dog owners described themselves as less consistent about rules than the owners of large dogs were. People with small dogs were likelier to decide that sometimes it was okay for their dog not to follow whatever rules the people had set.

Last Updated: July 14, 2020 References Approved

This article was co-authored by Ty Brown. Ty Brown is a Dog Behaviorist and Trainer and the Owner of Ty the Dog Guy, a business that provides dog training through digital resources (podcasts, web series, and online courses) along with in-person dog training. Ty has over 14 years of experience in dog training and specializes in both mitigating unruly pet behavior and service dog training. Ty has been awarded the “Best of State Award” for dog training in Utah eight times and his work has been featured in ABC, NBC, CBS, Spike TV, and Entrepreneur Magazine.

There are 22 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page.

wikiHow marks an article as reader-approved once it receives enough positive feedback. In this case, 100% of readers who voted found the article helpful, earning it our reader-approved status.

This article has been viewed 380,121 times.

It may not seem like a big deal to let your dog cuddle with you at bedtime but allowing your dog to sleep in your bed often leads to other behavioral problems. These can include disobedience, acting out and being overly possessive. In fact, letting your dog sleep in your bed could undermine your leadership in the household and give your dog the impression that she is in charge. [1] X Research source

Ty Brown. Dog Trainer Expert Interview. 4 June 2020. When buying dog beds, you really do get what you pay for. Flimsy and cheap pet beds will fall apart easily and last your dog only a few months. The better the quality of the bed, the longer it will last. [4] X Research source When choosing a dog bed, you should consider your dog’s sleeping style, her age, and your budget. There are several types of beds available, including: [5] X Research source .

• Orthopedic dog beds: Orthopedic dog beds are long mattresses that provide orthopedic support. They are best for older dogs and provide extra cushioning. They are also roomy, so if your dog likes to spread out when she sleeps, this could be a good option.
• Donut (bolster) dog beds: This type of dog bed is a cushion with a raised side that makes it look like a donut. These are good for dogs who like to curl up when they sleep.
• Pillow or cushion dog beds: These are simple beds made of a large pillow or cushion and are good for dogs who like to spread out when they sleep.
• ‘Heated dog beds: If you live in a colder climate or have an old or small dog that doesn’t retain body heat well, a heated dog bed is a good option to keep your dog warm.

Ty Brown. Dog Trainer Expert Interview. 4 June 2020. It’s very important establish his sleeping area right away so she is not tempted to try to lay on your bed. Line the kennel or crate with newspaper in case of any nighttime accidents. Create an elevated area at the back of the sleep area, such as a dog bed or pillow, so your puppy is sleeping in a clean area of the kennel. [9] X Research source

You know your dog can jump, but should he be putting that kind of strain on his body every day? Think of how often your dog has to jump to get onto furniture, beds and into vehicles. Now think of how often he jumps while playing or exploring his environment.

Table of Contents

Even if your dog can jump up into your car, truck or SUV by himself, you should still know how to help a dog get into a vehicle. It saves a lot of stress on a dog’s joints, which through unneeded and constant wear and tear could lead to health issues over time.

Dangers for Dogs Jumping Into Vehicles

For a dog, jumping in and out of a vehicle could be dangerous. For example, if your dog jumps or lands the wrong way, he could end up spraining or breaking a leg, or needing an expensive surgery to repair a ligament.

Young and active dogs that keep jumping up and down many times each day will have an increased chance of joint related health problems later down the road. The higher the jump, the more stress it puts on your dog’s legs, paws and joints, particularly for large breeds.

If you have a big truck or SUV, your dog may need to jump several feet each time he gets in and out of the car. Learning how to help a dog get into a vehicle will save him from having to make that leap and probably reduce joint problems when he gets older.

In this article and in the above video, I show three techniques on how to help your dog get into a car using pet steps and dog safety ramps, as well as some alternative options. Using any of these methods, you should have no problem with your dog getting into a car anymore, and you’ll also save his joints from unnecessary stress, wear and tear.

How to Help a Dog Get Into a Vehicle

How to Get Your Dog Into a Car by Yourself

If a dog can’t get into the vehicle on their own, most owners will opt to pick their dog up and give them a boost. In the video above, I demonstrate the proper ways to put small, medium or large breeds into the car, truck or SUV by lifting them.

If you have a small dog, it’s easy to scoop them up and place them in the vehicle. But medium and large breeds are much heavier, so lifting them isn’t always an option.

With big dogs, the best thing you can do is place their front paws on the floor of the vehicle and cradle their hind end while lifting them up and helping the dogs into the car.

Be sure to always support your dog’s hind end and not place strain on the dog’s abdomen or back legs while lifting your dog into the vehicle. The cradle method that I demonstrate in my video is the best way to safely lift a medium or large breed dog.

Is lifting your dog up into the vehicle effective? Yes, but it can also be extremely hard on your own body. While you’re saving the stress to your pet’s joints, you’re creating a lot of stress and pressure for your back, legs, shoulders and arms.

Ultimately, the best way to help a dog into a car is by using a dog stairs or a pet ramp that are specifically designed to help give dogs a boost into high cars, trucks and SUVs. I demonstrate the use of a pet ramp in my video above, but pet stairs work well, too.

There are differences between these two options but personally, I prefer to use a dog ramp over dog stairs because ramps are easier for senior pets and dogs with arthritis or hip issues since the climb is much simpler. Lifting the legs to climb pet stairs can be sometimes difficult for these dogs.

Get the Dog Into a Car Using Pet Ramp or Stairs

Whether you choose a dog ramp or pet stairs, be sure to find a product that is made for the make and model of your vehicle. They don’t always specify which cars the stairs or ramps are made for, so you may have to measure.

When measuring stairs/ramps for your car, make sure to measure from where the ramp or stairs will attach to your vehicle down to the ground at an appropriate slope.

If the slope of the pet ramp is too steep, it will make things even more stressful on your dog’s body than jumping into the vehicle would be.

You also need to look for a set of pet stairs or ramp that will be easy to stow in your vehicle and take out when needed so it doesn’t turn into a constant hassle.

Find dog steps or dog ramp that:

• Collapses for easy storage
• Is lightweight
• Is able to support your dog’s weight

As I demonstrate in my video above, it’s easy to train a dog to use stairs or a ramp. The best way is to do this with dog treats and lure your pooch up and down until they’re comfortable with the process.

At first you’ll need to use a lot of treats to motivate the dog, but soon enough he’ll figure out that’s it’s easier to use the ramp/stairs than keep jumping up and down. Then you can just treat the dog for climbing up or down.

Learning how to help a dog into a vehicle isn’t difficult, but it’s important information that every dog owner should know. It will benefit your dog’s overall health, and it’s an great preventative measure to keep his joints in a much better shape and away from jumps.

Best Dog Ramps and Stairs for Cars

Some pet stairs or ramps are great for beds and furniture but may not be suitable for vehicles, particularly if the car is too low (sports car) or too high (SUVs and trucks). Below are five of my favorite dog ramps and dog stairs for cars that I would recommend trying for helping dogs get into your vehicle.

It doesn’t matter whether your dog is old or a puppy, big or small. Every dog needs to learn basic leash skills. This will help you take your dog for a walk in the park, or around the block, or even to a crowded veterinary clinic without getting your legs wrapped up in a leash, or a dislocated shoulder. Even a pint sized pooch can ruin the joy of walking by pulling, spinning and jerking you around. This makes leash skills important not just for the dog, but also for your own personal safety.

A lot of people tend to think training an older dog to walk on a leash is an impossible task. While it might be easier to train a puppy, it is not impossible to leash train an adult dog. All it takes is a little patience, and lots of love. Nothing comes easy, but if you’re willing to put in some time and effort, the end payoff is worth it – you’ll have a dog who is a pleasure to walk.

Getting Started

Before you get started training your adult dog to walk on a leash, it is important to check your equipment.

• Collar – make sure your dog has a collar that fits him/her properly. It shouldn’t be too tight, or too loose. If your dog tends to pull a lot, even a normal collar can choke him/her, so it would be a good idea to use a harness instead of a collar.
• Leash – ensure that your dog has a suitable leash. It would make sense to have a thin, delicate leash for a small dog, and a larger, thicker leash for a large dog. A shorter leash will help keep the dog at your side, and help you correct bad behavior more effectively. Walking an adult dog on a shorter leash will also help you keep the dog away from distractions.
• Treats – make sure you reward your dog with a doggy treat for being obedient. It will give your dog an incentive to be polite and walk well for you.
• Don’t forget to shower your dog with words of endearment and praise for being cooperative and listening to your commands.

Walking Without Pulling

Since you are trying to train an adult dog to walk on a leash, the dog probably already has the habit of pulling on his leash. Therefore, it is important to communicate two things to your dog.

1. Pulling on the leash will not help him reach his destination faster. It will just annoy you.
2. Walking politely will make you happy. Don’t forget to express your happiness by rewarding your dog with a treat, and words of praise.

Thanks Happy Tails For the Photo

When your dog starts to pull on the leash, you could try the “no forward progress” by just stopping in your tracks. Sooner or later, your dog will notice the pattern in your stopping and will just walk calmly by your side in order to get to his destination. When you feel the leash go slack (which means your dog isn’t pulling on the leash), don’t forget to reward him for that.

Training an adult dog isn’t easy. You might have to take him for several short walks through the day for several days in order for him to understand what you approve of and what you disapprove of. Dogs are smart, and they will quickly figure out that pulling actually slows down their progress rather than speeding it up.

Walking By Your Side

It is important to teach your dog to walk by your side. Traditionally, dogs are taught to walk on the left side, however you can choose whatever side you’re more comfortable with. If your dog constantly runs around in circles, or moves backwards and forwards, your walk will be far from enjoyable.

In order to teach your dog to walk by your side, you could make sure that the leash is short enough that he cannot move away from you very easily. If you leash isn’t short enough for that, you could just wrap a long leash around your wrist to reduce the length. Just make sure you don’t make it too short so that you’re not dragging your dog.

You could tempt your dog towards the correct side by giving him tiny treats. In time, your dog will start to understand what exactly you want and expect from him/her, and slowly you can start cutting down the number of treats you give your dog. However, continue to constantly reward your dog with praises when he/she responds to your commands appropriately.

At the end of the day dogs are smart, loving beings who will do anything to make their master happy. Therefore, it is necessary to show your dog how proud you are of him/her when he/she responds to your commands. All it takes to train your adult dog to walk on a leash is a little patience, a pinch of firmness, and tons of love.

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Want to learn more about “Leash Manners” Training your Dog?

Check out our class, where we show you how you can teach your dog to have impeccable leash manners, even if right now, he’s out of control, always jumping on you during walks, or biting and tugging on the leash..

25 | Posted: November 19, 2010

By Sophia Yin, DVM, MS

Question: We are having a debate in our city regarding our off-leash dog areas. A person is trying to get the city to create segregated large and small dog areas because of his belief in the premise of “predatory drift”. For years (ever since it was created), our dog park has had one big area for all dogs to socialize and play. The owners in our park are very responsible and quick to jump in when play gets out of hand, no matter the size of the dog.

Answer: Having different sections to a dog park—a general section, and one perhaps for shyer dogs or dogs who need a quieter area with calmer or fewer dogs—can be a good idea. Many dogs do become overwhelmed when crowded by a group of dogs or when other dogs are engaged in fast-paced play.

However, the idea that large and small dogs cannot play well together is untrue. And there is no scientific term for dog behavior called predatory drift. Big dogs and small dogs can play together on a regular basis, and big dogs are not destined to become predatory to little dogs.

The main factor dictating whether there is trouble at the park is the ability of humans to recognize inappropriate or rude interactions and ability of the humans to call their dogs away in a come when called immediately (not after 5 calls). Also, if one dog is more comfortable playing on his own, the other dogs at the park should be able to play away from him while he stayed in his own section.

So, if anything, it would be smarter to say, “You can only use the park if your dog can come when called away from play with other dogs and other park-type distractions, within in 1-2 calls–whether your dog is small or large.” Or, you promise to have your dog on a long leash so you can control him as needed.

Tips for Knowing When There is Trouble: Even if your dog’s come when called is quick and 100%. You may still have trouble knowing when you should use it. Here are some tips:

· Avoid letting your dog crowd other dogs who are trying to enter the park. Instead call him to you and keep him occupied playing with you until the dog is well-inside the enclosure.

· Avoid letting your dog tailgate other dogs. If your dog has his nose glued to another dog’s butt as the other dog weaves a jagged path around the park, don’t just stand there and ponder if the other dog minds. If you wait long enough and no-one comes to this uncomfortable dog’s rescue, the other dog may finally take matters into his own hands and snap to tell your Bowser to go away. (To see video of a puppy playing obnoxiously and an older dog defending her personal space, click here.)

· Understand that just because both dogs are playing rough and seem to enjoy it does not mean that the play is safe. Overexcitement can be practice for or lead to aggression. Just like when young boys are wrestling, playing storm trooper, or light-saber duel, if it gets too rowdy and one hits the other just right, it can escalate into a fight.

· In general when dogs are playing well, even if they are racing around full speed, they should have many natural pauses to their play. Generally one dog will suddenly lay down or roll over or will suddenly stop dead in his tracks. If this doesn’t happen frequently (such as once a minute or more), or the second dog doesn’t take the cue and slow down or pause, or if when it happens the dogs are not relaxed, then the play is probably not safe. That is, down the road it may lead to a fight, or it may train the dogs to be overly aroused and uncontrolled in other situations. The deciding factor is that if you call your dog and can’t get him out of the situations, then it’s not safe. (To see video of appropriate play, click here.) This video shows Jonesy and Ryder playing—they frequently stop, and Ryder is always relaxed. Plus, I can call Jonesy away.

For additional information and videos on appropriate play in dogs refer to Chapter 19 in Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs and Cats Book and DVD.

You’re in the mall. The plan is to go to just one store. But you hear a voice that says: “Go ahead. Walk over there. Look at that shiny thing in the window. Oh, and that one, too! And what’s that over there?”В

This is your dog on a walk. Her nature is to smell and explore everything around her. Want to know what’s unnatural to her? Walking on a leash.

Why Walk?

But your dog needs to walk, and you need to use a leash to control her. The exercise is good for both of you. And a well-walked pooch is a happy and healthy one.

“Taking a dog on a walk helps them explore their environment, which is key to their well-being,” says James Barr, DVM, with Texas A&M’s Veterinary School. A walk shouldn’t only be a chance for your pet to go to the bathroom. A good stroll is like a spa for her.

Daily walks can also aid your dog’s digestion and help her sleep better at night.В

On the other hand, idle paws can lead to bad habits. Chewing, digging, and tons of barking often mean one thing — boredom. Walking helps hounds burn off the jitters.

It also gives the two of you time to bond — and build trust.В

Practice Makes Perfect

So how do you get to a nice, smooth walk with a dog who doesn’t dash here and there or pull against the leash?

Steven Marrujo, manager of PawFection doggy day care in Pasadena, CA, says patience and consistency are key. Even little things matter, like using the same leash and walking on the same side of the road every time.

He also suggests tiring your dog out a bit before a walk. “Play a quick game of fetch or wrestle with them.” This can help young pups focus during a stroll. В

You could also give your pal tasty treats while you’re on the go to help her link the walk with a good time, says Sharon Wirant, manager of the Anti-Cruelty Behavior team for the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA).В

Continued

Put an End to Pulling

A dog that pulls spells trouble for both of you. It can hurt your arms, back, and legs or cause a fall. And your pooch could hurt herself. “In rare cases, a dog may damage their airway if they pull too strongly on their leash,” Barr says. “They can also have nerve damage in their necks.”

And if your pal slips free of her collar and leash, watch out! This could be bad news for her, other canines, and even human bystanders.

It may take more work for a dog to stop pulling — especially an older one who’s done it for a while, Wirant says — but don’t give up. She suggests a canine version of “red light, green light” to teach your dog not to pull.

• Carry treats with you on the walk. When your dog pulls, stop in your tracks. (Red light!)
• Call her back to you, ask her to sit, and give her a treat. Start to walk again. (Green light!)
• Repeat inside the house and then outside. Soon she’ll learn that pulling means the fun stops.

Products for the Pooch

Gadgets like collars that poke, pinch, or shock should be used in extreme cases and for a short amount of time, says Shawn Baxendale, a professional dog trainer and owner of It’s Just a Dog Thing in Los Angeles.

These items aren’t a cure-all. “Some collars can be helpful in training a dog not to pull. However, this should not be used in place of patience and time when working with your pet.”

Many professional dog trainers are OK with harnesses — a wrap that goes around your pooch’s chest above and below his shoulders. The leash attaches to the top, so you don’t injure your pal’s neck. But some pros say a dog is as likely to pull in a harness as with a traditional leash and collar. You could also try a leader, a collar with a strap that goes across the top of your dog’s nose.

Continued

Wirant suggests you ask these questions before shelling out cash. Does this product:

• Reduce or increase pulling?
• Make it easier to handle my dog?
• Cause her distress or discomfort?
• Give me confidence to help train my dog?

For most products, the fit is key. Too loose, and it may not work. Too tight, and it can cause your dog serious pain. “I tell people: Put the collar on your wrist and see how it feels when you tug,” Marrujo says. When in doubt, seek help from a professional trainer or a veterinarian.

Sources

James Barr, DVM, clinical assistant professor, Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital, Texas A&M University, College Station.

American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA): “Exercise for Dogs.”В

Animal Foundation: “The Importance of Walking Your Dog.”В

Steven Marrujo, manager, PawFection, Pasadena, CA.

Sharon Wirant, vice president, Anti-Cruelty-Behavior team, American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.

Shawn Baxendale, professional dog trainer, owner, It’s Just a Dog Thing, Los Angeles.

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Does your rescue dog pull the leash when you take him for a walk? Has this turned into a problem for you? Then you have found the right place to learn how to leash train a dog properly.

I used to have the same problem with my collie/ mixed breed dog. He grew up big and powerful, and he used to carry me around the neighborhood as if I was a potato sack. I was reminded of these episodes from my childhood when I stumbled on the question “How do we leash train a 2-year-old rescued dog properly?”

As you can imagine, it’s no fun to fight with your dog for control every time you go for a walk. Not to mention that leash pulling might be dangerous if the dog is too strong and manages to run away. Fortunately, even an older dog could be retrained to behave properly and walk calmly next to you.

Before we dive into the question of how to leash train our older dog, we should look at the core of the issue.

Why does the dog pull the leash?

It’s not hard science when you think about it. Dogs pull because they want to get somewhere/ explore something/chase something and they are frustrated because we humans don’t move as fast as they would like to.

But a more accurate answer would be that we teach the dog that it’s ok to pull. Every time we allow the dog to pull the lead, we are establishing and reestablishing a pattern. “I pull, I get what I want” – that’s what your dog has learned and in his mind pulling means rewards.

That’s where training has to come in place and teach the dog that pulling won’t get him near his target more quickly and that a loose leash is what will get him the reward.

How to leash train a 2-year rescue dog (or any adult dog, for that matter)?

Affliate links included below. Thanks for your support!

As you can imagine, it’s not easy to reteach an older dog that pulling is bad after he has some experience that points to the opposite. You’ll need a lot of time to teach him the new rules, and it’s important that you don’t use any punishment. It will only make thing worse, especially when it comes to rescue dogs.

1- Pick the right equipment

Before you start your leash training lessons, you have to make sure that you have everything you need. In this case:

• a proper collar , which is not too tight or too loose
• a suitable leash for your dog’s size
• a lot of treats

When dealing with older dogs, it might be a good idea to get a training lead . This is a shorter leash, which keeps the dog close to you and allows you to correct inappropriate behavior more quickly.

Another option is to get a head halter , which is a specially designed collar to stop your dog from pulling. It looks a lot like a muzzle, but it’s not because your dog can still bark and bite. Although the head halter doesn’t cause pain, most dogs will hate it at first. As a result, you’ll have to spend some extra time getting your dog used to wearing one.

For some dog owners using a head halter is cruel. So it’s up to you to judge its pros and cons. But never use shock or prong collars. Unlike halters, they cause pain and physical damage.

2- Deal with the excitement

What does your dog do when you pick his leash and prepare for a walk? He probably runs happily around in anticipation of going outside because he knows what is happening. And an overly excited dog is more likely to start pulling to get to his favorite spot in the park.

The solution is to calm your dog before going for a walk. If he gets excited while you’re putting on the leash, stop and back off. Repeat this until your dog understands that excitement won’t get him out of the door.

It’s also a good idea to burn off some of your dog’s excess energy by having an exercise session before going for a walk. A tired dog is less likely to start pulling on a leash than one who has been sitting all day at home with nothing to do.

Also, my advice is to start small. By this, I mean short training sessions around the neighborhood. The familiar landscape won’t be as interesting to your dog as new sights, and you’ll be able to start reinforcing the new rules.

3- Stop the dog from pulling

When your dog starts pulling on the leash you have several options:

• stop dead in your tracks and don’t move
• start walking in the opposite direction (don’t attempt this if the dog is wearing a head halter)
• take a few steps backwards
• keep treats in your hand and offer them to the dog from time to time to keep him from wondering off

When the dog stops pulling his leash, call him back to you. Then offer him a treat and praise him. Repeat as often as need.

Eventually, Lucky will learn that walking on a loose leash next to you means tasty food and will stop trying to pull you around.

Remember that retraining a rescue dog to walk on a leash properly takes time. Don’t expect a quick change in the behavior and be patient above all.

Many people think that dogs just innately know how to walk politely on a leash, but this skill is something that needs to be trained. It’s an important skill to teach, and one you’ll value every time you take your dog out for a walk. Dog training expert and AKC Family Dog training and behavior columnist Kathy Santo offers the following tips:

Training Your Dog to Walk on a Leash

Introduce the puppy to the collar or harness and leash. Start out by letting him get used to wearing a collar or harness and a leash. Let him wear them for short periods of time in the house while you are playing with him and giving him treats. The puppy should love collar-and-leash time because it represents food and fun.

Teach a cue. Introduce your puppy to a sound cue that means, “food is coming.” Some people like to click and treat, some people use a word like “yes,” and some people cluck their tongue. Whichever you use, the method is the same: In a quiet, distraction-free area, with the puppy on a leash and collar, make the sound. The second your puppy turns toward you and/or looks at you, reward him with a treat. After a few repetitions, you’ll notice your puppy not only looking at you, but also coming over to you for the treat.

Make the puppy come to you. While he’s on his way to you, still wearing the leash and collar, back up a few paces and then reward him when he gets to you. Continue the progression until your puppy, upon hearing the cue noise, comes to you and walks with you a few paces. Remember that puppies have a short attention span, so keep your sessions short, and end them when your puppy is still eager to do more, not when he’s mentally exhausted.

Practice inside. Now that your puppy understands how to come to you, practice walking a few steps in a room with little distraction. Feeling and seeing the leash around him will be enough of a challenge. Offer treats and praise as your puppy gets used to coming to you, as described above, with a leash on.

Take it outside. Finally, you’re ready to test your puppy’s skills in the Great Outdoors. There will be new challenges with this step because all the sounds, smells, and sights your puppy encounters will be intriguing and new to him. Be patient and keep the first walks short. While you’re on a walk, if your puppy looks as if he’s about to lunge toward something or is about to get distracted (you’ll notice this because you will keep your eyes on him at all times), make your cue sound and move a few steps away. Then reward him with a treat for following you.

Leash-Training Troubleshooting

Even though your puppy may be learning to walk on a leash very nicely, you’re likely to run into some issues as he gets older, goes new places, and experiences new distractions. You’ll want to teach him loose-leash walking, because it’s much more pleasant for you both, and also then he can pass his Canine Good Citizen test. Here are a few tips on what to do if you’re having trouble with leash training, courtesy of the AKC GoodDog! Helpline.

If your pup pulls: If your dog starts pulling in the other direction, turn yourself into “a tree.” Stand very still and refuse to move until your dog comes back to you. Do not yank or jerk the leash, and do not drag your dog along with you. Front-hook harnesses and head halters are alternative training tools designed for dogs that tend to pull.

If your pup lunges: If your dog is going after something while on a walk — another dog, a car, a skateboarder, for example, be proactive. Try to redirect his attention with a treat before he has a chance to lunge, and increase the space between your dog and the target. Stay alert and be prepared before the target of his frustration gets too close. This type of behavior may be more common in herding breeds, but any dog can be startled by something he’s not used to or finds exciting.

If your pup barks: Some dogs have the habit of barking at other dogs while on a walk. Oftentimes, this behavior comes as a result of lack of exercise. Make sure your dog gets the proper amount of mental and physical stimulation for his age and breed. If this is still a problem, use the same process as you would if your dog is lunging, as described above — create distance and offer treats before he starts to bark, so every time he sees a dog he gets used to turning his attention to you.

Gradually you’ll reduce the number of treats and the amount of troubleshooting that your puppy needs during a walk, but it’s a good idea to keep some on hand at all times so you can randomly reinforce good leash-walking behavior.

Stuck at home with a new puppy? Training your dog during COVID-19 can be difficult without access to normal training classes. That’s why we’re here to help you virtually, through AKC GoodDog! Helpline. This live telephone service connects you with a professional trainer who will offer unlimited, individualized advice on everything from house-training to behavioral issues.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Rachel Asher

Things You’ll Need

Plastic tub about the same size as your toilet or wee wee pads

Warning

This trick is not advised for miniature, teacup or other small breeds. If your dog is too small to brace itself on the rim of the toilet seat, this training exercise is not for you.

Be sure your dog is properly house trained to start. If accidents are still occurring, this exercise is too advanced for your dog.

Sick of taking out the dog, picking up poo or looking for a new trick? Why not teach your dog to use the toilet? It may sound silly, but with a little patience, and a lot of encouragement, you can potty train your furry friend. By taking the time to teach your dog each of the steps below, you’ll find that teaching your dog to use the toilet isn’t just handy, but a fun way to spend time with your favorite pet.

Step 1

The first step to toilet training your dog is teaching it a code word. Just like “sit,” “come,” and “stay,” your dog can learn to associate a word with going to the bathroom. With different dogs, I’ve used everything from the girlier “Go pee pee” to a brusque “out.” Pick a single-syllable word. It’s easy for you to remember, and more importantly, for the dog to understand. If you don’t take your dog out with a leash, start now, and bring him or her to the same spot every time. You’re aiming for both word and place association here. If you’ve ever heard of Pavlov’s Dog, that’s basically what you’re doing. But instead of ringing a bell every time the dog eats so it eventually salivates at the sound of the bell, you’re saying “Pee pee” every time your dog produces waste. So stand outside with your pet in your special bathroom spot, and each time he/she excretes, repeat: “That’s a good pee pee, Brutus,” or “Good pee pee, Cinderella”. Positive reinforcement and repetition are key here. Eventually, just saying “Pee pee” will make your dog want to go to the bathroom. You’ll know it works when you’re sitting on the couch in the evening and look at your dog, and say, “Pee pee?” and your dog is ready to go out. When this happens, you’re ready for Step 2.

Step 2

Take a plastic tub or wee wee pad, at least two inches deep, and put it in your dog’s “out” spot. When you take Fido out, continue using the code word and get him used to peeing and pooping near the tub or pad, Then, even if you ease him in, one paw per-day, get him to pee and poop while standing in the plastic tub or wee wee pad. You’re going to have to give it a rinse out, and I’d suggest using dish soap and water to keep it clean while you’re going through this process. Going to the bathroom in a tub or wee wee pad is not a natural feeling for your dog, so give him/her lots of love, praise and encouragement while it figures it out. Princess probably thinks you’re crazy, but she loves you, so she’ll follow your lead eventually. When she gets into the tray to do her business without flinching, you’re ready to move on.

Step 3

Now that your dog is comfortably relieving itself in a plastic tub or wee wee pad, bring it inside and move it next to your toilet. Let your dog get used to this for a few days or even a couple of weeks. This training exercise has a few major steps, so pay attention to your dog’s learning level and be patient. There may be some accidents now that you’re inside, and after each one, issuing a firm, strong “No,” with the scary voice your dad used to use will be sufficient. If you didn’t catch the dog in the act, leave it be. Disciplining your dog when it has no clue what you’re talking about won’t do your dog any good, and it will only make you frustrated when it makes the same mistake again without learning.

Step 4

Now that your dog is going to the bathroom in the tray/tub next to the toilet, raise the tray/tub up, six inches at a time, until it’s level with the toilet. Whatever you use to raise the tray up, be sure it’s sturdy enough to support your dog. Scare him/her with a loud crash or an un-sturdy tub, and you’ll have to earn your dog’s trust all over again. Cinder blocks or bricks work well for this, and they’re easy to add every time you raise the level. Once your dog is up at toilet level, move the tub or wee wee pad onto the toilet for a few days. Next, raise the seat up and balance the tub or pad onto the toilet bowl rim. If all systems are go at this stage, remove the tray and leave the toilet seat up. Your dog will start balancing itself on the rim of the toilet bowl and go to the bathroom in the toilet.

For parents who want to become dog owners, or dog owners who want to become parents, childproofing their dog is as imperative as house training it.

In Peter Pan, the plot begins when Mr. Darling demands that his wife no longer employ the family dog, a Newfoundland named Nana, as their children’s nanny. This is meant to be a sign of his hard-heartedness, but his logic is hard to dispute: Dogs were bred to do many things, but raising children is not one of them.

Mr. Darling was, of course, being lazy. Dogs are a big part of many families. While they don’t have an innate sense of how to behave safely around infants and toddlers, they simply need to be trained. Thus, for parents who want to become dog owners, or dog owners who want to become parents, childproofing the dog is as imperative as house training it.

Brian Kilcommons knows this. A world-renowned dog trainer and author of Childproofing Your Dog: A Complete Guide to Preparing Your Dog for the Children in Your Life, Kilcommons has spent more than three decades helping parents train their dogs to play nice with babies and toddlers.

For new parents, Kilcommons stresses to really stop and consider bringing a new dog into the mix. “People don’t realize, they’re bringing another baby into the house,” he says. If parents are dead set on bringing a dog into their family, he recommends they wait until their youngest child is at least five before they get a dog and even then they need to recognize the impact it will have on their daily routines. At least if the kids are older they can help to feed and walk and train the puppy. For those who have dogs and want to make sure their child and four-legged friend get along, he offered up these tips.

Start with command training

A dog cannot be childproofed (or taught much of anything) until it has been trained to follow the basic control commands: sit, down, and let go. Command training, per Kilcommon, not only enables you to assert control over the animal, but also to communicate and establish a relationship with it. It will also train you as an owner to read your dog’s behavior and accurately interpret its feelings.

Once you’ve mastered the basic commands, you can move on to more advanced training useful for a household with children. This includes teaching your dog to move aside when a person wants to walk by (thereby reducing canine-toddler collisions), to distinguish between baby toys and chew toys, and to stay calm when its tail is tugged.

Expose your dog to children beforehand

Being around adults does little to prepare a dog to be around young children. Children are smaller, louder, less predictable and sometimes aggressive. They even have a different scent. Confronted for the first time with such creatures, many dogs can become overwhelmed.

A crucial step in childproofing a dog is simply to expose it to children — playing, laughing, crying — until Bowser feels comfortable being around them. Proceed gradually: Invite some friends over who have older, well-behaved kids and see what happens. If that goes well, bring Bowser to the park where there are younger, more rambunctious kids. Owners need to be in control during each interaction, correcting bad behavior (overexcitement, barking) and rewarding the good.

Stick to a schedule

Having children obliterates your normal routine. But, per Kilcommons, owners need to try their hardest not to let it disrupt their dog’s. This means sticking to feeding and walking schedules. Dogs like schedules and need exercise and shouldn’t be deprived of either, especially while acclimating to life with children. Even if this requires one to hire a dog-walker to maintain this routine, make it happen.

Teach your child proper dog behavior

It’s critical that parents teach their children at a young age how and when to approach, pet, and play with dogs. In other words, a childproofed dog is one that is safe to be around a dog-proofed child. “The rule here is you do not allow a child to do anything to a dog or a puppy that you would not allow it to do to another child,” explained Kilcommons.

Never leave the dog and child alone

Per Kilcommons, even a fully childproofed dog should never be left alone with a young child. There is simply no predicting how an infant, toddler, or dog will behave, and so accidents are always a possibility. At times when parents aren’t in the same room as their children, Kilcommons recommends the old standby: the crate. “[Crates] usually can’t be opened by children where a door [to a room] can be,” he explained. “That’s not a punishment for the dog, it’s a safe place.”

Know when to get help (and when to give up)

Dog owners must stay vigilant for signs of aggression — low growls, wide eyes, hard stares — and seek professional help if you notice them. Aggressive behavior can be managed, of course, but it takes experience and will get worse if left alone. Kilcommons stresses that not all dogs are fit to be around children and vice-versa. Trust your instincts and err on the side of caution. The consequences of a mismatch between dog and child are just too great to risk.

Good behaviour and obedience need to start early. A dog’s training programme must start as early as possible, because at a young age they have an excellent capacity for learning. Your dog should understand the basic rules of life, even as a puppy, to help them become confident, even-tempered adult dogs and avoid any nervousness that could lead to destructive behaviour.

House training your puppy

Your puppy will most likely not be house-trained when you bring them home and so accidents may occur in their first weeks. Often, a puppy will have an accident in the home because they are given too much freedom, too soon, and are unsure of the appropriate place to urinate.

To avoid this, there are a number of steps you can take:

• Ensure your puppy only has access to one or two rooms in the house, where the family spend the most time
• Crate the puppy when you can’t supervise them. Puppies are less likely to soil their sleeping area as they see this as their safe space and want to keep it clean
• Have regularly scheduled feeding times. This will allow you to monitor the puppy more closely, as they are more likely to need to be let out soon after they’ve eaten
• It’s important to reinforce desired actions, so congratulate your puppy for urinating outside
• To make sure you can give them immediate praise, it’s a good idea to go outside with your puppy
• Never punish or reprimand a puppy who has had an “accident”. Instead, find ways to prevent your puppy from ever having the need to urinate outdoors
• Don’t wait for your puppy to signal that they want to go out. Most puppies will not learn to signal their need until they first learn to “hold” in the house. Take them out on a regular schedule

Take them out frequently, after every meal and nap, before bed and as soon as you get up in the morning so they get used to this routine. At the beginning, take them to the same place every time so they can recognise their own scent.

If you notice your puppy turning round and round, or sniffing the floor indoors, this is a sign that they need to go. In the event of an “accident”, don’t scold your puppy, but disinfect the spot to remove their smell. Don’t clear it up while they are in the room and don’t use bleach, both to avoid stimulating their interest.

Puppy obedience training

Dogs are a pack animal and need authority. From the very beginning they will need a single person who can be their teacher. Don’t shout when you call your puppy – they are sensitive to variations in your voice, and will understand different tones very well, such as short and sharp for commands, happy to congratulate them and severe for a reprimand. Always use the same words for the same orders.

Teaching your puppy to sit

Using a food reward, hold the food over the puppy’s nose and slowly move it up and back, over the puppy’s head. When the puppy follows the food with its head, it will sit down. When your dog does this, say the word “sit” with the action.

As soon as your pet sits, say “good sit” and give them the reward. Many repetitions will be necessary for your puppy to learn to associate the reward with the sit. Start off with 3 short training sessions lasting just 5 minutes a day, and extend the sessions little by little as your puppy gets older.

Teaching your puppy to lie down

Once you have taught your dog to sit, you can start teaching the “down” command. Get them to sit first, and then encourage them to lie down by holding the reward, lowering it between their front paws and pulling it forward (away) at the same time, while saying “down”. When they lie down, give them a reward, and plenty of praise.

Choosing a food reward for training your puppy

Choose something small and low calorie that your puppy likes. A kibble taken from their daily ration can do the job, or a nutritional supplement devoted to training. Make sure you include this energy supply in the calculation of their daily ration.

If you have further training aspirations, dog training clubs are open to all puppies accompanied by their owners. As obedience is the basis for everything that you will be doing with your puppy, going to a club will confirm the education you are giving them.

Traci Theis and Kellyann Conway

Listen to Your Dog

Learn to listen to your dog. If your dog appears to be uncomfortable meeting another dog, animal or person, don’t insist that he say hello. He’s telling you that he isn’t comfortable for a reason, and you should respect that. Forcing the issue can often result in bigger problems down the line.

Be Generous with Your Affection

Most people don’t have a problem being very clear about when they are unhappy with their dogs, but, they often ignore the good stuff. Big mistake! Make sure you give your dog lots of attention when he’s doing the right thing. Let him know when he’s been a good boy. That’s the time to be extra generous with your attention and praise. It’s even okay to be a little over the top.

Does He Really Like It?

Just because the bag says “a treat all dogs love” doesn’t mean your dog will automatically love it. Some dogs are very selective about what they like to eat. Soft and chewy treats are usually more exciting for your dog than hard and crunchy treats. Keep your eyes open for what he enjoys.

Tell Him What You Want Him to Do

There is nothing inherently wrong with telling your dog “no,” except that it doesn’t give him enough information. Instead of telling your dog “no,” tell him what you want him to do. Dogs don’t generalize well, so if your dog jumps up on someone to say hello and you say no, he may jump higher or he may jump to the left side instead of the right. A better alternative would be to ask him to “sit.” Tell him what you want him to do in order to avoid confusion.

Be Consistent

Whenever you’re training your dog, it’s important to get as many family members involved as possible so everyone’s on the same page. If you are telling your dog “off” when he jumps on the couch and someone else is saying “down,” while someone else is letting him hang out up there, how on earth is he ever going to learn what you want? Consistency will be the key to your success.

Have Realistic Expectations

Changing behavior takes time. You need to have realistic expectations about changing your dog’s behavior as well as how long it will take to change behaviors that you don’t like. Often behaviors which are “normal” doggie behaviors will take the most time such as barking, digging and jumping. You also need to consider how long your dog has rehearsed the behavior. For example, if you didn’t mind that your dog jumped up on people to say hi for the last seven years and now you decide that you don’t want him to do that anymore, that behavior will take a much longer time to undo than if you had addressed it when he was a pup. Remember it’s never too late to change the behavior some will just take longer than others.

Don’t Underestimate the Benefits of Feeding a High Quality Food

Feed your dog a high-quality diet with appropriate amounts of protein. If your dog spends most of his days lounging in your condo, don’t feed him food with a protein level that is ideal for dogs who herd sheep all day. The money that you will spend on feeding an appropriate quality food will often be money that you save in vet bills later on. I recommend you always check with your veterinarian for the right diet for your dog.

You Get What You Reinforce – Not Necessarily What You Want

If your dog exhibits a behavior you don’t like, there is a strong likelihood that it’s something that has been reinforced before. A great example is when your dog brings you a toy and barks to entice you to throw it. You throw the toy. Your dog has just learned that barking gets you to do what he wants. You say “no,” and he barks even more. Heaven forbid you give in and throw the toy now! Why? Because you will have taught him persistence pays off. Before you know it you’ll have a dog that barks and barks every time he wants something. The solution? Ignore his barking or ask him to do something for you (like “sit”) before you throw his toy.

Bribery vs. Reward

The idea of using treats to train is often equated with bribery. Truthfully, dogs do what works. If using treats gets them to do what you want, then why not? You can also use the world around you as a reinforcement. Every interaction you have with your dog is a learning opportunity, so when you think about it, you probably don’t use food very often except during active training sessions. So why does your dog continue to hang out? Because you reinforce him with praise, touch, games and walks. Just remember, the behavior should produce the treat; the treat should not produce the behavior.

Freedom

Let your new dog gradually earn freedom throughout your home. A common error that many pet parents make is giving their new dog too much freedom too soon. This can easily lead to accidents relating to housetraining and destructive chewing. So, close off doors to unoccupied rooms and use baby gates to section off parts of the house, if necessary. One of the best ways to minimize incidents is to keep your dog tethered to you in the house and by using a crate or doggie safe area when you can’t actively supervise him.

by Brenna Davis

Aggression is the most serious behavioral problems dog owners face. When dogs attack other dogs, the situation can quickly grow dire, subjecting both you and the dogs to danger. It’s possible to retrain aggressive dogs, but training is most effective when done under the direction of a skilled dog trainer.

Socialization

Socialization is the key for preventing aggression in dogs, and properly socialized dogs rarely display aggressive behaviors. Before they are 16 weeks old, puppies are highly receptive to socialization, and owners should strive to give their dogs as many novel, positive experiences with other dogs as possible. Take your dog to dog parks, pet stores and other locations where dogs will be, and give your dog a treat every time he interacts with other dogs. This teaches him to have a positive association with being around other dogs. Older dogs can also be socialized, although the process typically moves much more slowly.

Medical Aggression Causes

Dogs who have not been spayed or neutered are especially likely to be aggressive to other dogs. Have your dog altered while he is still a puppy. If your dog suddenly displays aggressive behavior, there could be a medical cause. Infection, chronic pain and some endocrine disorders can cause aggression, so consult your veterinarian first if you witness aggressive behavior.

Retraining Aggressive Behavior

If your dog is already aggressive, you will need to gradually train the behavior away. Because aggression is so dangerous, this effort is unlikely to succeed without the guidance of a highly skilled dog trainer. Training efforts generally focus on gradually decreasing the distance between two dogs that provokes aggression. This can take up to a year and requires that you practice daily. After your dog will tolerate another dog in her presence, you must then begin actively socializing her to other dogs.

Aggression Management

Whether your dog is already aggressive or you’re just concerned about her becoming so, it’s wise to plan to manage potentially aggressive behavior. When meeting a new dog, ensure your dog is under your control. If your dog has already displayed aggressive behavior, she must wear a muzzle whenever she might encounter new dogs. Never leave an aggressive dog unattended with another dog, even if your dog and the other dog have previously gotten along.

Nothing ruins a walk faster than when your dog lunges as other dogs or people. Here’s what to do to stop your dog from lunging while walking.

Taking your dog for a daily walk is one of your most basic responsibilities as a dog owner. Not only does your daily walk give you time to bond with your pup but it also helps him to work off his excess energy. If your dog doesn’t have proper leash etiquette, however, that daily walk can turn into a chore that is unenjoyable for the both of you. Lunging is one of the most common leash-related problems that dogs tend to exhibit and it does have a solution – let’s talk about how to stop your dog from lunging while walking.

Why Dogs Lunge on the Leash

Lunging behavior can manifest in different ways and for different reasons. In many cases, dogs pull on the leash because they haven’t been taught how to walk properly on the leash in the first place. When a dog pulls on the leash it is often because he is eager to get at something – this happens when he sees an animal in the distance or if he sees another person he wants to greet. In other cases, dogs might lunge on the leash as an act of aggression or as a defense mechanism. When dogs feel threatened they may back off and adopt a submissive position or they might lash out in an attempt to scare their aggressor away. If your dog’s lips are curled back in a snarl and his ears are flattened against his head when he lunges on the leash, this second condition is most likely to blame.

Tips for How to Stop Your Dog From Lunging While Walking

The most important thing you need to know about dealing with your dog’s lunging behavior is that you cannot punish it away. Many dog owners make the mistake of yanking on the leash in response to their dog’s lunging or they yell at the dog. Not only is your dog unlikely to understand why he is being punished, but it could actually make the situation worse, especially if he is already frightened or distressed. Lunging behavior is referred to as “leash reactivity” by dog trainers and animal behaviorists and it is a natural behavior for a dog to develop – this doesn’t mean, however, that you need to allow it to happen. There are some simple steps you can take to correct this type of behavior. Here are some tips for decreasing your dog’s leash reactivity:

• Take your dog for his walks in an area or at a time when other people and dogs are unlikely to be around. This many mean walking your dog later at night or avoiding the dog park.

• If your dog is extremely distressed by the approach of another dog, turn him around and walk in the opposite direction. If you have a small dog you can also try picking him up and turning away.
• Consider using a product design to limit your dog’s vision so he doesn’t become so stressed out on your walks. Look for doggie sunglasses or other products like the Premier Calming Cap.
• Keep your dog on a head halter during your walks so you have greater control over his head. The halter alone may make your dog feel calmer and it will also allow you to redirect his attention quickly if necessary.

If you truly want to change your dog’s reactive behavior you can do a little bit of training to desensitize your dog to the perceived threat. Keep your dog outside on a leash and have a friend bring another dog into the picture – as soon as your pup starts to become nervous, distract him with a few treats – you should also give him plenty of petting and verbal reassurance. After a few seconds, have your friend lead the other dog away at which point you should stop giving your dog treats. Repeat the sequence, only feeding and petting your dog when the other dog is present. After a few repetitions you can start moving the other dog closer and increase the length of the exposure. Eventually your dog will learn to associate the presence of another dog with good things and you can continue working with him from there.

Getting Started
The female dog normally comes on her first heat between the ages of nine and fifteen months. Attempting intercourse with her at this time is not recommended since these changes in her biochemistry are confusing enough without having you trying to do wierd things to her. I would strongly suggest waiting until her second heat if all appears normal.

The right bitch for you

As a rule of thumb, a dog the size of your average German Shepherd Dog is large enough to comfortably accomodate your average sized human male. However, this is not always true. I will go into further detail about signs of discomfort and warning signs later. Saint Bernards, Great Danes, Newfoundlands and other huge breeds should have no problems accommodating a human male.

Prepararation is the key!

In preparing to have sex with your dog, you’ll need to run down to the local drug store and pick up a few things. Namely: KY Jelly, (do NOT use a petroleum or oil based lubricant). Wet and Astro Glide, both of which can be found at your local adult shop, work as well. Also, if you’re near a medical or veterinary supply, surgical lubricants are good too; latex gloves. If you’re going to be messing around with a stray dog or a dog you do not own it doesn’t hurt to rubber up! You can get infections or a fever from bitches with vaginal infections or brucellosis, (see the ‘Zoophilia and Your Health’ PIP for more information on this topic); condoms. If sharing a dog or picking up a stray, protect yourself. Although dogs do not carry AIDS, it has been theorized that the virus could survive long enough inside a bitches’ vagina long enough for you to contract it, or anything else, if you have sex with her immediately after an infected person. Remember also that if she has a yeast or bacterial infection, you could get it too; surgical soap. If you know the bitch is in good health and you’d like to insert whatever strikes your fancy into her, I recommend you clean it thoroughly. A bitches’ vagina is a very vascular area and, especially when in heat, is quite susceptable to infection; nail clippers. Nails could carry dirt on them or scratch the delicate inner lining of a bitches’ vagina. Cut them nails down and file them. You’ll also look stunning with your new manicure :); and lastly, MilkBones! Buy these with everything else if you really want to squick the counter people 🙂

In the trenches

Once you’ve got your bitch and your supplies, it’s time to get to work. I do not suggest attempting sex with a bitch out of season, especially if she is not your dog. You may wind up getting bit, which may mean changing your name to John Wayne Bobbitt. A bitch in heat is your best bet, but just because she’s wet and smells nice doesn’t mean she’s ‘in the mood.’ How can you tell if she’s in the mood? Check the discharge. The discharge of a bitch in ‘Standing Heat’ should be pinkish / creamy white. This cycle lasts for between seven and nine days and is in the middle of the complete heat cycle.

If the discharge is a dark, blood red, she’s just coming into or going out of heat. It never hurts to try but DO NOT force her. She may say no the first time. Bitches are known to tease and may jump forward or fall over in front of you. However, if she reacts hostily to you, STOP IMMEDIATELY.

Definate signs that a bitch is receptive are; Flagging – raising of the tail over the back exposing the genitals, Soliciting – rubbing her butt in your crotch, sitting on your face, etcetera, and Play Posing – being excessively playful, jubilant, etcetera.

Once you’re both consenting, you may consider some foreplay. Fingering her will bring you both hours of joy and amusement 🙂 The bitches’ “clitoris” is located about 3/4-1″ (in large breeds) into the vagina. The clitoral ridge is fairly prominant so easy to find. Rubbing this will cause her to start thrusting and she’ll love you for every moment of it. If she’s your dog or if you’re certain she’s healthy, you may want to engage in some ‘puppylingus.’ Most bitches have a bitter-sweet taste when in standing heat and I definately recommend the aroma.

With all teasing done, it’s time to start your engines! The vagina of a female dog takes a sharp turn upward so you will have to enter from a seventy-five to eighty degree angle. The average body temperature of a dog is 101-102 degrees Fahrenheit so expect her to very hot and moist. I don’t believe I need to tell you what to do from here on in *grin*. Enjoy!

Out of heat and spayed bitches

If the bitch is your own you may want to try her out of heat. The same rules apply except be sure and use an excessive amount of lube and be very careful. You can do a lot of damage if you try and force her and that’ll be a difficult one to explain to the vet.

Most spayed bitches cannot have intercourse because of the removal of their reproductive organs. They do not come into heat and very few show interest in sex. You can try ‘fingering’ a spayed bitch of ‘puppylingating’ her but intercourse is strongly advised against unless you have extensive experience.

The same rule of thumb for size applies to anal sex as well. There are some dogs that like anal sex, others that tolerate it, and those that can’t stand it. Most dogs will not be immediately comfortable with anal sex but if you choose to continue, instructions on how to do so follow. If your dog reacts with an expression of pain or anger, STOP IMMEDIATELY. Your dog is not suited for anal intercourse.

Start by touching the anal area of your dog and let them get comfortable with it. Do not dive right in and insert anything. Wait until they freely alow you to touch under their tail. Be patient. While touching around their tail, wear gloves. Numerous worms and bacteria which can cause a variety of illnesses can be found in dog feces. NEVER MAKE ORAL CONTACT WITH A DOG’S ANUS. The result could be a nasty infection or a case of tape, ring, or hookworms, among others. Once your dog is comfortable with you feeling around their anus, try inserting a VERY well lubricated, gloved finger. Do this over and over again until your dog seems comfortable with it. Once again, if your dog seems to be in pain or react violently, STOP and DON’T try again. Gradually increase the number of gloved, well lubricated fingers you use until the number of fingers inserted comfortably represents the width of your *****. You may then attempt anal intercourse with your dog.

* Not every dog enjoys anal sex. The majority do not,
* Always rubber up and never have oral contact with the anus and STOP IMMEDIATELY if your dog shows signs of pain or discomfort.
* If you notice worms in your dog’s stool, bring your dog to the vet with a stool sample.

How to Cut a Dog’s Nails Without Him Biting Me

If you are like many dog owners, you are hesitant to trim your dog’s toenails. You dread the inevitable fight with your dog and if you cut too deeply, you risk causing pain to the dog, which may result in an even more uncooperative dog the next time you attempt the task. You can train the dog to accept toenail trimming using repetition, patience and plenty of praise. You will have the most success with trimming your dog’s toenails if you can condition your dog to view toenail trimming as a positive experience.

Lift the dog’s paws and examine the toes daily, starting slowly and gradually working up to holding the dog’s toes for 15 to 30 seconds and reward the dog with treats. If the dog attempts to nip or bite you, say “No” in a firm tone. You may also have an assistant practice restraining the dog by placing their arms around the dog’s shoulder and neck. It may take up to a week or more for some dogs to tolerate having their toes held.

Clip just one toenail and give the dog a treat if he behaves well. You can try trimming another toenail, but stop for the day when the dog becomes uncomfortable. You should gradually be able to trim a couple toenails at once, eventually working up to trimming all the toenails in one session.

Examine the condition of the clipped nails for any areas that you may have cut too deeply. Cutting too far into the quick, or the blood vessel running through the middle of the toenail, is a major reason dogs dislike toenail trimming. If the toenail bleeds, sprinkle styptic powder on the toenail to stop the bleeding. To ensure that you do not cut too deeply, cut the toenail at a 45-degree angle below the quick, holding the cutting end of the nail clipper toward the end of the toenail.

It is better to trim a small amount off your dog’s toenails once a week than to wait and try to trim a lot once a month. The quick runs down the middle of the toenail and the longer the toenail, the closer the quick will be to the edge of the toenail and will be more difficult to trim.

If the dog has dark toenails, it is more difficult to see the quick. You should cut dark toenails by trimming small slices off the toenail, stopping when you see the quick, which will appear as a black dot in the middle of the toenail when viewing it head on.

Warnings

If the dog still does not allow toenail trimming after weeks of positive conditioning, you may need to take the dog to a veterinarian for trimming. He or she can sedate the dog while trimming.

Dog training doesn’t have to be complicated.

In fact, the most simple commands are the best. Today we’ll show you how the simple stay command is one of the best to teach you’re dog.

Once your dog and you have mastered (or at least learned!) the sit command, the next thing you want to work on is “stay.”

It’s never too late to teach your dog this trick, so let’s show you how to train your dog to stay in just 5 easy steps.

Stay. . . Or As We Call it “Chill”

The stay command is one of the few important commands that you should actually take the time to teach your dog. It’s an important one just to get basic control of your dog in case you need it.

We always thought stay sounded a little stuffy, so we taught our dog to “chill.”

You can call it whatever you want. In case you forgot, your dog doesn’t speak English and won’t know the difference!

The awesome side effect of working on these commands is that you are building a relationship between you and your dog. You are also creating a dynamic that will be important in establishing yourself as the pack leader.

How to Train Your Dog to Stay in 5 Easy Steps

Sitting still for even a few seconds can be a challenge for some dogs. If you have one of those dogs, start small and stay patient.

Aim low at first.

In other words, you are going to be rewarding your dog when he sits still for even very short times.

It may not always seem like it, but dogs are very quick learners.

The catch is they don’t always learn the thing you are trying to teach you. If you give in too soon, they learn that they can get the treat anyway.

Remember, you need to have worked on “sit” first. If you haven’t, check out this post on how to teach your dog to sit.

With that in mind, here are the easy to follow steps to training your dog to stay:

1. Ask your dog to sit. Instead of giving him the treat right away, see how long he will hold the position. Wait a few seconds, then give him a treat and praise.

2. Repeat this, only each time try to stretch the amount of time between holding the position and the treat.

3. Once you feel you have this down, start adding the command “chill” and hold up your hand.

4. Put in more repetitions using the stay command and your hand. Keeping lengthening the time between the command and the treat.

5. Once you have that down, start skipping the treat occasionally and reward with just praise.

Eventually you will want to keep making it more and more challenging for your dog.

Start stretching the distance you are standing away. The key is to practice, but remember this is supposed to be enjoyable.

If you start yelling at your dog and getting frustrated, you probably won’t make much progress.

Conclusion

With a few treats and a little patience, you will be surprised how quickly even the most stubborn dog can learn. The key is to stay consistent and stay positive.

For more great everyday tips, check out our free training guide here. Keep it fun and remember all doggies are Good Doggies!

House-training your dog or puppy requires patience, commitment and lots of consistency. Accidents are part of the process, but if you follow these basic house-training guidelines, you can get the newest member of your family on the right track in a few weeks’ time.

Establish a routine

Like babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule. The schedule teaches them that there are times to eat, times to play and times to do their business. Generally speaking, a puppy can control their bladder one hour for every month of age. So if your puppy is two months old, they can hold it for about two hours. Don’t go longer than this between bathroom breaks or they’re guaranteed to have an accident.

Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every two hours—and immediately after they wake up, during and after playing, and after eating or drinking.

Pick a bathroom spot outside, and always take your puppy (on a leash) to that spot. While your puppy is relieving themselves, use a specific word or phrase that you can eventually use before they go to remind them what to do. Take them out for a longer walk or some playtime only after they have eliminated.

Reward your puppy every time they eliminate outdoors. Praise or give treats—but remember to do so immediately after they’ve finished, not after they come back inside. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for going outdoors is the only way to teach what’s expected of them. Before rewarding, be sure they’re finished. Puppies are easily distracted and if you praise too soon, they may forget to finish until they’re back in the house.

Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule. What goes into a puppy on a schedule comes out of a puppy on a schedule. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that they’ll eliminate at consistent times as well, making housetraining easier for both of you.

Pick up your puppy’s water dish about two and a half hours before bedtime to reduce the likelihood that they’ll need to relieve themselves during the night. Most puppies can sleep for approximately seven hours without needing a bathroom break. If your puppy does wake you up in the night, don’t make a big deal of it; otherwise they will think it is time to play and won’t want to go back to sleep. Turn on as few lights as possible, don’t talk to or play with your puppy, take them out and then return them to bed.

Supervise your puppy

Don’t give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on them whenever they’re indoors.

Tether your puppy to you or a nearby piece of furniture with a six-foot leash if you are not actively training or playing. Watch for signs that your puppy needs to go out. Some signs are obvious, such as barking or scratching at the door, squatting, restlessness, sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take them outside to their bathroom spot. If they eliminate, praise them and reward with a treat.

Keep your puppy on leash in the yard. During the housetraining process, your yard should be treated like any other room in your house. Give your puppy some freedom in the house and yard only after they become reliably housetrained.

When you can’t supervise, confine

When you’re unable to watch your puppy at all times, restrict them to an area small enough that they won’t want to eliminate there.

• The space should be just big enough to comfortably stand, lie down and turn around. You can use a portion of a bathroom or laundry room blocked off with baby gates.
• Or you may want to crate train your puppy. (Be sure to learn how to use a crate humanely as a method of confinement.) If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, you’ll need to take them directly to their bathroom spot as soon as you return.

Mistakes happen

Expect your puppy to have a few accidents in the house—it’s a normal part of housetraining. Here’s what to do when that happens:

• Interrupt your puppy when you catch them in the act.
• Make a startling noise (be careful not to scare them) or say “OUTSIDE!” and immediately take them to their bathroom spot. Praise your pup and give a treat if they finish there.
• Don’t punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it’s too late to administer a correction. Just clean it up. Rubbing your puppy’s nose in it, taking them to the spot and scolding them or any other punishment will only make them afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Punishment will often do more harm than good.
• Clean the soiled area thoroughly. Puppies are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces.

It’s extremely important that you use these supervision and confinement procedures to minimize the number of accidents. If you allow your puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, they’ll get confused about where they’re supposed to go, which will prolong the housetraining process.

Make plans for when you’re away

If you have to be away from home more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy. Instead, you may want to consider an older dog who can wait for your return. If you already have a puppy and must be away for long periods of time, you’ll need to:

• Arrange for someone, such as a responsible neighbor or a professional pet sitter, to take them for bathroom breaks.
• Alternatively, train them to eliminate in a specific place indoors. Be aware, however, that doing this can prolong the process of housetraining. Teaching your puppy to eliminate on newspaper may create a life-long surface preference, meaning that even as an adult they may eliminate on any newspaper lying around the living room.
• If you plan to paper-train, confine them to an area with enough room for a sleeping space, a playing space and a separate place to eliminate. In the designated elimination area, use either newspapers (cover the area with several layers of newspaper) or a sod box. To make a sod box, place sod in a container such as a child’s small, plastic swimming pool. You can also find dog-litter products at a pet supply store.
• If you have to clean up an accident outside the designated elimination area, put the soiled rags or paper towels inside it afterward to help your puppy recognize the scented area as the place where they are supposed to eliminate.

We see every side of our pets: the good, the bad and the ugly. But have you ever seen the little green monster in your pets? Just like humans, dogs can experience jealousy over toys, food, and even their owner’s attention. Jealous dog behavior is often challenging to correct and can quickly turn into dog aggression if not properly addressed.

Anthony Newman, CPDT-KA and founder of Calm Energy Dog Training, shares the three types of jealous dog behaviors that can lead to dog aggression, plus tips for how to train a dog to be less reactive to these situations.

Jealous Dog Behavior: How to Train a Dog Against Moderate Guarding

When a dog is guarding a particular item, such as a bone, dog bed or bowl, and lunging, barking, snapping or trying to scare you or the “threat” away, Newman suggests a combination of two exercises: making the dog leave the item and removing it.

You can start the first by sending the dog away from the item by attaching a light leash to a PetSafe Martingale dog collar and leading him away from the item with a “leave it” command. As soon as he abandons his post and redirects his attention, reward him with a treat, drop the leash and use an “ok” command to allow him to happily return to the resource. Newman reminds us not to practice this exercise more than once or twice a day as it can make your dog nervous.

Secondly, once you begin to feel comfortable with the first exercise, practice taking the item from your dog and following the same reward routine of treating the dog and returning the item when he doesn’t react. By mastering the combination of exercises, you can begin to incorporate the training when your dog is posed with trigger situations where his jealous dog behavior may be provoked.

When It’s You That’s Guarding Your Jealous Dog

Sometimes, aggressive dog behavior can be perceived as guarding, when really, you are guarding him. “He’s putting up a show of aggression because he feels guarded by you,” clarifies Newman, “It isn’t him guarding you, but rather you’re permitting and promoting the aggression by (unintentionally) guarding your dog!” What does that mean? Newman goes on to explain that if your dog barks at the doorbell or lunges at a passing dog, and you pull back, your dog may see this as his aggression having caused the perceived threat to disappear. Your dog thinks, “The aggression worked!” and he feels encouraged to repeat the behavior.

So, how do you train your dog to safely pass by? Newman describes a dog’s thought process by saying, “Nine times out of ten in these cases, if you take control of your dog and of the situation, start leading your dog up to the threat—not being dragged by your dog—but you in front, leading, [he] starts to learn that his aggression isn’t needed and starts to be calmer in ‘trigger’ situations.” While this seems counterintuitive at first, it is most effective with leash-aggression, such as your dog barking at other dogs, kids on bikes, skateboarders, etc., or when he is guarding your home when a visitor or guest comes over, or even when the mail carrier comes by. If your dog is generally good with others in every other situation and not actually aggressive, chances are that he just needs to be reassured that there is no threat.

“He’s succeeded so far at convincing you (and others) that he’s aggressive; by doing so he’s manipulated you into protecting him from his perceived threats, and from the consequences of his reactivity,” explains Newman. “If you don’t allow the aggression to work, and instead take control and approach, in these cases, submissiveness ensues.” Ensuring that your dog is calm in his environment, or out on a walk, is the best way to successfully execute this exercise. Zuke’s Enhance Calming Chicken Formula Dog Treats and Vet’s Best Comfort Calm Soft Chews Dog Supplement help protect against environmental stress and reactivity. ThunderEssence Dog Calming Mist is also great to spray on his martingale dog collar or his dog harness before an upcoming trigger situation to help keep him relaxed throughout the exercise.

Serious Food Aggression

Full-blown resource guarding, also known as food aggression, can apply to any number of resources. While this dog behavior is rather rare, it can range from mild or moderate to severe, and can be a very difficult issue to address. “I always start by telling owners up front that in my more than 15 years’ experience with aggressive dogs of every size, age and breed, genuine resource guarding is something that can’t be fixed,” says Newman. “To the extent your dog will bite, puncture, and draw blood if someone approaches their food bowl, rawhide chew, tug toy, stick, squeaky ball or even dog bed, this reactivity ‘threshold’ won’t diminish, no matter what kinds of obedience training you work.”

Though full-blown resource guarding, when present, is usually engrained in the dog’s behavior, that doesn’t necessarily mean that nothing can be done about it. While a dog will continue to react when he feels that whatever is being guarded is at risk, the best way to avoid and prevent this jealous dog behavior is by preventing the situations that trigger it.

If this sounds like your dog, do not give up hope! Newman says that the best way to manage a true resource guarder is to not leave them with access to items that they perceive as valuable around potential threats. “In extreme cases, this means not being able to go to the dog park at all. Often, it means not bringing a squeaky ball; even more frequently, it means not bringing dog treats ,” specifies Newman, “Don’t leave food bowls out at home with visitors, kids or other dogs. Don’t leave chews or dog toys out.” By eliminating items that your dog can become protective over, you remove the risk of dog aggression.

Working with a certified dog trainer will be the best way to learn how to safely handle your dog, act around him, and keep others safe. Keep in mind, however, that some resource guarding reactions are very serious and can be provoked by seemingly no cause, so remember to always take caution with yourself and those around you and your pup.

Most dogs that pull have learned to do so over a period of time. The longer they have been doing it, the harder it will be for them to change. In most cases, a fresh approach is needed by introducing an alternative to the lead and collar.

Dog lead training

The following tips address how to stop your dog pulling on a lead, whether this is attached to a collar, harness or headcollar.

• Before training begins, take your dog in the garden and attempt to wear them out. Having them slightly less ready to take on the world will help them to respond better to you.
• Load your treat bag with tasty food and get your training lead ready. Ask your dog to sit calmly before attaching the lead. Reward calm behaviour at this early stage as you want to avoid teaching your dog to become overly excited every time you set out for a walk.
• If your dog becomes wild with excitement, remove the lead from sight and walk away. Return to them in a few moments and try again. Once you have managed to put the lead on, it’s time to begin walking.
• Walk slowly and encourage your dog to walk on a loose lead by rewarding them with food and praising them enthusiastically
• If your dog pulls ahead, simply stop. Lure them back to your side with a piece of food and when they do this, feed and praise them again. This technique is very simple and uncomplicated – if your dog walks on a loose lead they get well rewarded and get to continue on his journey.
• If they pull, the rewards stop and the walk is delayed. Most dogs learn the opposite of this, which is ‘the harder I pull, the quicker I get to the fun part’. Please bear in mind that dogs that have learned this over a period of time will need lots of help and encouragement in order to change the habit of a lifetime.
• A dog’s natural walking pace is usually twice as fast as the average human’s. As a dog would not naturally choose to walk at such a slow pace, it’s doubly important that we reward them generously for something that they find difficult.

The right equipment to stop pulling

Treats

Using treats during your walk is extremely important as they have the power to help change your dog’s behaviour for the better. Before you say this is bribery, think again! Treats are a worthy reward for hard work – for example would you be so keen to work all day for half your salary? No, we didn’t think so… Also, it’s important to remember that it will be hard to change habits of a lifetime unless there is a really worthwhile incentive.

Using treats as rewards is the best way to encourage dogs to repeat the things that you want. They can also be extremely useful for distracting your dog away from things that cause inappropriate behaviour. Just knowing that you carry food around with you will automatically make you more interesting to your dog and you’ll find that they pay greater attention to you as a result.

No rubbish and boring treats allowed – the only things you can use are the treats that your dog will work for in any situation. Here at Blue Cross we use a variety of hotdog sausage, cubes of cheese or fresh cooked chicken and ham.

The other important thing to consider is to make sure that you don’t run out before your finish your walk, so be very generous and remember to take out enough. For the fashion conscious among you – you may find that compromising your street cred and sporting a bum bag will make this a lot easier.

Headcollars

For really strong dogs or dogs who may be reactive out and about, it’s worth considering using a headcollar at first, especially if there is a risk of you being pulled over. As they are worn on the dog’s face and the point of contact is typically under the chin (much like a horse headcollar), you have more control enabling you teach loose lead walking safely.

There is a wide range of headcollars available on the market. As with all good dog training equipment, it must be introduced to your dog in the right way and it must be used in conjunction with the right technique. If you don’t do this, it is likely to result in your dog hating having to wear it and feeling distressed and frustrated during a time when he should be having fun.

For a dog that has never worn a headcollar, it will feel very strange to suddenly have something placed over the bridge of his nose. Most dogs will attempt to remove this by either rubbing their faces on the ground or pawing at it.

August 8, 2014 By Fanna Easter

Fearful dogs break my heart. It’s not their fault they’re scared. They are either born this way and/or learned through scary encounters.

When training or living with a fearful dog, you’re using the same basic learning principles, but doing a few things differently. Always remember: fear causes aggression. We are all equipped with “fight or flight” mode. It’s a defensive mechanism. In fearful dogs, this mode is turned up a few notches.

Never use punishment-based training methods. Never punish a dog for being fearful, you will make it much worse. Punishment means yelling, screaming, pushing, pulling, correcting with a collar or verbally, and hitting a dog. It’s not their fault. Would you punish a child for being scared? I think not.

First, enroll in a Relaxed Rover class. Relaxed Rover classes are designed for fearful dogs and incorporate the below fearful dog tips. Class size is smaller than regular group classes and provides plenty of opportunities for practicing while offering guidance from a professional dog trainer.

Use the Very Best Treats

This is so important. I’m shocked how many dog owners disregard dog training treats. This is your dog’s currency, so use treats your dog loves!

Control His Environment

If your fearful dog refuses to eat his treats and you’re using hot dogs and string cheese (i.e. high value treats), stop and assess the situation. Is your dog distracted by:

Another dog standing too close?

o Move your dog away, at least 10 feet, if possible and try again.
o Provide visual barriers, such as bushes, fences and distance.

A person standing too close?

o Move your dog away, at least 10 feet, if possible and try again.
o Provide visual barriers, such as bushes, fences and distance.

Loud noise?

o Move away from loud noises and refrain from teaching your dog around loud noises. This could mean walking your dog in a park instead of alongside a busy road.

Quick movement?

o This startles many fearful dogs, as they believe quick movement means they are coming to get me.
o Provide visual barriers.

Teach Redirection

Redirection means to reward your dog for doing something else. If your dog jumps up, reward him for sitting instead. When redirecting, always continue to manage your environment.

If another dog is standing too close,

o Teach your dog the “look at that” cue.
o When your dog looks at another dog, click and treat. Your dog learns dogs equal food.

If a person is standing too close,

o Teach your dog the “look at that” cue.
o When your dog looks at a person, click and treat. Your dog learns strangers equal food.

If there is loud noise,

o Feed your dog as a loud noise is happening.
o Trust me, you’re not rewarding your dog’s scared behavior. You are pairing yummy food with something scary, such as a noise. This works wonderfully!

If there is quick movement,

o Teach your dog the “look at that” cue.
o When your dog looks at whatever is causing quick movement, click and treat. Your dog learns quick movement equals food and quick movement does not mean you are coming to get him.

Build Confidence

By teaching a fearful dog the “look at that” cue, he’s learning the world is not scary, which is very empowering. The more your fearful dog learns, the more confidence he will build!

I highly recommend enrolling in controlled dog sports, such as agility and nosework. By controlled, I mean one dog and handler are allowed in the ring at a time. This means low distractions and lots of one-on-one attention from the dog trainer.

Nosework is awesome for fearful dogs! Nervous dogs usually blossom after just one session. They learn to do something else instead of worry, and every dog has a good nose–even baby Pugs. 🙂

Preventing Shut Down Dogs

When a dog shuts down, he has given up to the extent he becomes frustrated. This condition is called learned helplessness, which can be treated. We cover learned helplessness in more detail in this article.

Bark back! What tips have worked for your fearful dog?