How to keep landscape grasses from spreading

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Known for its widespread use on sports fields, Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon) is highly tolerant of foot traffic because of its vigorous spreading action. Along with seeding, this warm-season grass reproduces through above-ground and underground stems, which are called stolons and rhizomes, respectively. Because of its aggressive growth, you cannot control all Bermuda grass in your yard or garden, but several landscape barriers substantially slow it down. The Bermuda grass cultivars “Sundevil” and “Tifway 419,” also called “Tifton 419,” are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10.

Vertical Barrier

A vertical barrier installed in the ground impedes Bermuda grass’ spreading underground rhizomes. A thick plastic or metal barrier that is at least 8 inches long, or deep, provides the best control against Bermuda grass. Most rhizomes remain in shallow soil as they spread horizontally. If possible, extend the barrier above the soil surface to impede stolons’ spread. As you install the barrier, remove all Bermuda stolons and rhizomes that are in the soil near the barrier. A relatively grass-free area prevents new seedlings from sprouting in the wrong areas. Vertical barriers stop the majority of Bermuda grasses from spreading into flower and vegetable gardens.

Trench

Create a grass-free zone around your garden by installing a trench. A 4-inch-wide and 4-inch-deep trench around the garden will prevent the grass from spreading into the garden. Although a trench barrier is effective against Bermuda grass, all stolons and rhizomes trying to cross the trench must be pruned diligently over time. Install such a trench on only high ground. A trench built at the bottom of a slope becomes a haven for standing water and soil erosion. Fill the trench with decorative stones or gravel to maintain its shape and to deter water from puddling in the space.

Edging

A more formal and expensive Bermuda grass barrier is edging made of concrete and brick. The concrete forms a foundation for a small brick wall that impedes stolons’ spread. The concrete can be extended to form a small walkway that stops Bermuda grass’ growth. Although rhizomes may grow under the concrete, a wide walkway will prevent them from accessing sunlight. As a result, the rhizomes effectively die back under the concrete and keep the Bermuda grass contained to its proper area.

Mulch and Shade

Spread mulch around your favorite plants to slow Bermuda grass’ spread into their areas. As stolons spread across an ample layer of mulch, they cannot access the soil below the mulch; the stolons need to root in soil. Select either organic or non-organic mulch to decorate your yard and control the grass. Another option is to use shading from nearby trees or large bushes as landscape barriers to Bermuda grass. The grass does not tolerate shade well, dying back quickly if shade persists. Plant shade-loving plants in the shaded areas to complete your garden’s appearance.

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• How to Use Grass Clipping Mulch If Creeping Charlie is in Your Lawn
• How to Mow Grass Around a Flower Bed
• How to Cut a Lawn With a Mulch Blade

There is no wrong way to keep grass from growing in your flower beds, but some methods are more successful than others. Combining multiple techniques that work to exclude grasses from garden beds creates multiple tiers of obstruction. If one method fails to work entirely, the other methods act as fail-safes to maintain grass-free flower beds.

Edging

Installing edging along the perimeter of flower beds is one of the most effective ways of keeping grass out. Edging creates a solid, physical barrier, spacing the growing lawn away from the beds. Bury the edging material’s lower portion at least 6 to 8 inches deep to block grass roots from spreading. Examples of edging include stones, bricks, railroad ties, pavers, plastic rolled edging or steel edging. Edging also gives a neat, finished appearance to your yard.

Trenching

Add an extra physical barrier between your lawn and edging by cutting a narrow trench in front of the edging. Maintaining a soil-free space between the lawn and the flower beds prevents grass roots from spreading through the soil and underneath the edging. Trenching is an ongoing process and you need to do it two or three times a year to clear out any buildup of debris or crumbling soil in the empty space. Position the trench two inches away from the edging on the lawn side. Dig the trench 2 inches wide and 4 to 6 inches deep.

Mulching

If the grass is able to get past the edging and trench, you will need an additional barrier to keep it from taking root in the soil of the flower bed. Mulches provide a protective cover over flower bed soils, keeping stray grass from rooting and blocking sunlight from errant weed seeds. Types of mulches include bark, newspaper, wood chips, peat moss and landscape fabric. Spread loose mulches in a 3-inch layer for it to be effective.

Trimming

It is important to pay attention to the direction in which your lawn mower shoots grass clippings while you are mowing the lawn. Always mow around the edge of your lawn first, positioning the clipping vent towards the center of the lawn. You may have to make two or three rounds with the vent facing the center of the lawn to create enough space between the spray of clippings and the flower beds before changing direction. Consider using a bagging attachment on your mower to collect the loose clippings. Be wary when using string trimmers around the edges of your lawn, as they tend to spread clippings randomly outward. Rake up any stray grass clippings from your flower bed after cutting your lawn to prevent them from taking root.

Perennial lawn grasses are bred for their ability to spread and fill in bare spots. It’s this quality that makes for the thick, lush turf that everyone wants for their lawn. But that same characteristic can cause turf grasses to go where you don’t want them—into gardens and planting beds, over sidewalks and edgings, and up through paving cracks. To understand how to keep lawn grass in its place, it’s necessary to know a little about how these plants reproduce and spread.

How Turfgrasses Propagate

Turfgrasses, like all plants, can reproduce (propagate) in one of three ways. First, they can flower and produce seeds, which then fall into adjacent soil or are spread by wind or water to nearby areas, where they germinate and take root. Second, the plants can spread through roots, called rhizomes, that travel underground and sprout up in nearby areas. Some types of turfgrass spread primarily by this method—Kentucky bluegrass is one example.

Finally, a grass plant can propagate and spread by surface runners, called stolons, that stretch out over the surface of the earth and send down roots when they find suitable soil. A plant that spreads with way is said to be stoloniferous. St. Augustine grass is one example. Some grass varieties, such as Bermudagrass and zoysia, use both stolons and rhizomes for propagation.

Most lawns planted from seed contain a mixture of grass varieties. A lawn may be dominated by rhizome grasses or stolon-forming grasses, but more likely it will contain several kinds of grass of both types. Close inspection of your lawn may reveal different colony areas where different types of grasses have found their ideal growing situation and have come to dominate specific sections of the lawn.

How to Stop Grass From Spreading

The primary culprits when grasses overrun garden beds and other areas are those turfgrass varieties that spread through rhizomes, stolons, or both. Combating them can be an ongoing battle, but there are a few different techniques that you can try.

• Weed by hand. This may not be what you wanted to hear, but systematic and regular weeding by hand is one of the best and the most environmentally responsible ways to remove unwanted grasses from garden beds. This can be a bit laborious with grasses that spread by rhizomes, as it is necessary to dig out the spreading roots carefully to prevent new grasses from sprouting up almost immediately.
• Use a torch weed killer. Like other plants, extreme heat will kill turfgrass plants. A convenient propane torch tool—a long wand and hose that attaches to a portable propane tank—can be used to kill grass plants with no harm to surrounding vegetation (provided you don’t get too close).
• Use a broad-spectrum herbicide. Many so-called weed-killers are designed only to kill broadleaf weeds while leaving narrow-bladed plants such as grasses untouched. To kill grass plants, you’ll need to use a broad-spectrum herbicide, such as a product containing glyphosate (Roundup, etc.).

Warning

Be aware, though, that these herbicides will kill anything they touch, so spray them very carefully, applying them with spot treatment on a windless day.

Plant Bermuda Grass

Take Care of Bamboo

Articles about Growing Grasses

Grow Wheatgrass at Home

Grow Pampas Grass

Grow Grass Between Pavers

Plant Rye Grass

Grow Grass from Seeds

Grow Monkey Grass from Seed

Plant Bermuda Grass

Plant Napier Grass

Plant a St Augustine Sod

Plant Monkey Grass

Take Care of Bamboo

Keep Landscape Grasses from Spreading

Bring Back Dead Grass

Plant a Running Bamboo

Plant Mondo Grass

Maintain Bermuda Grass

Grow Japanese Blood Grass

Plant Landscape Grasses

Grow Centipede Grass

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21 September, 2017

Zoysia grass is a popular warm season grass that provides a thick turf. According to Texas A&M University, zoysia grass is an effective choice of grass for gardeners who live in dry areas of the country. However, zoysia grass can quickly spread in moist conditions to adjoining lawns. Its vigorous growth can invade other areas of your yard or your neighbor’s and create an untidy appearance. By keeping zoysia grass in its designated location, you can have both a neat yard and happy neighbors.

Check with your neighbors before digging up their lawn. You may want to set up a meeting to check out the problem areas in your adjoining yards.

• Zoysia grass is a popular warm season grass that provides a thick turf.
• By keeping zoysia grass in its designated location, you can have both a neat yard and happy neighbors.

If your neighbors consent, spray the adjoining lawn with an herbicide that is chemically formulated to kill zoysia grass. Choose a dry day for spraying to reduce the risk of the herbicide traveling to ornamental plants.

Once the unwanted zoysia grass has died, press stakes around the perimeters of your lawn with a rubber mallet. You can wet the lawn if you are having difficulty pushing the stakes into the soil. Tie a string from stake to stake to get a clear idea of the perimeters of the lawn.

Push a shovel 6 inches underneath the soil to remove the dead zoysia grass, including the roots, that has grown beyond your yard. Throw the grass and roots away.

• If your neighbors consent, spray the adjoining lawn with an herbicide that is chemically formulated to kill zoysia grass.
• Push a shovel 6 inches underneath the soil to remove the dead zoysia grass, including the roots, that has grown beyond your yard.

Pick the type of edging you want to use in your yard to contain your zoysia grass. Types of edging include stone, bricks, rubber or logs. Measure the height and width of your edging material of choice. The deeper your edging material the less likely the zoyzia will jump over to the adjoining lawn. Edging material roughly 6 inches tall should provide an adequate barrier.

Dig a trench slightly shallower than your edging material with a trowel or half-moon spade. The edging material will settle an inch over time. Make the width 3 inches wider than your edging material. Follow the string in order to get a straight line. Pack the soil at the bottom of the trench with the trowel to achieve a flat surface. Place a level at the bottom to ensure that it is flat.

• Pick the type of edging you want to use in your yard to contain your zoysia grass.
• Make the width 3 inches wider than your edging material.

Set the edging material inside of the trench and pack soil around its sides. Butt the edges of the edging material to provide little room for your zoysia grass to escape. Continue down the perimeters.

Pour the type of grass seed that has been planted in the adjoining lawn the adjoining lawn into a seed spreader. Till the bare earth to break up the soil. Spread the seed at the rate specified on the grass seed package label directions. Cover the grass seed lightly with compost. Water the soil until it is moist, and keep it moist until the seed has sprouted.

• Set the edging material inside of the trench and pack soil around its sides.

Monitor your lawn for several months to ensure that the zoysia has not jumped over the edging.

These tough perennials don’t need much maintenance; just a few simple steps will keep them looking their best year after year.

Project Joy is a weekly column about the projects we’re doing at home that bring us a little piece of happiness.

If you don’t have a ton of time to maintain your garden, ornamental grasses make the perfect plant choice for filling out your landscape. They look beautiful almost year-round, thanks to their graceful foliage and eye-catching seed heads. Most species aren’t picky about soil, though they appreciate good drainage (like most plants do). Plus, ornamental grasses can be fairly drought-tolerant and usually aren’t bothered by garden pests (even deer will avoid most of them). While they don’t need much to thrive, they do need a little upkeep every now and then. Follow these tips to keep your ornamental grasses healthy year after year.

When to Plant Ornamental Grasses

The best time for planting perennial grasses is in the spring or fall. Choose a site with well-drained soil and full sun (many grasses need at least six hours of direct sunlight every day). Some warm-season grasses will do better if planted in the spring to allow the growing season to establish a good root system prior to winter.

Leave your grasses standing through winter, then cut them back in spring before the new growth gets going. That way you can have a fourth season of enjoyment from your grasses. Leaving up the seed heads may also attract hungry birds in winter.

How to Cut Back Ornamental Grasses

A sturdy pair of handheld shears work well for pruning smaller grasses. Use electric hedge trimmers for larger grasses or where the clumps have grown very dense. Cut off the dead foliage from last season 3-5 inches from the ground. Another advantage of using hedge trimmers is that it will give you an even cut all the way across a clump of grass. Use a hedge trimmer that’s an inch or two longer than your clump of grass is wide, and you’ll be able to cut the entire bunch back at once.

How to Divide Ornamental Grasses

After a few years in the garden, even slower-growing grasses may outgrow their intended space. Some grasses also start to thin out in the center, which is a sure sign it’s time to divide them. Plus, then you’ll have additional plants to spread around the garden or give to neighbors.

Divide grasses in early spring before the plant has put on much new growth. Start by shearing off last year’s growth, if you haven’t already. Using your spade, slice into the soil about an inch or so away from the clump. Then make a slice straight down through the clump to portion off a piece. Lift out this portion of the clump, roots and all. Plant the new piece as soon as possible and fill in the hole you left by the parent plant with a mix of compost and soil.

While zoysia grass is drought tolerant, holds up well to foot traffic, and provides thick coverage to lawn areas, these same qualities can also pose problems to homeowners. With its quick-spreading growth habit, zoysia grass can oftentimes invade and choke out neighboring yards and gardens. Therefore, it may be necessary to contain zoysia or even remove the grass to keep it under control.

Controlling Zoysia Grass

Zoysia grass spreads through underground rhizomatous runners. One of the best ways to keep zoysia out of neighboring lawns or garden beds is to establish good borders. You can accomplish this by installing lawn edging that zoysia is unable to get through, such as plastic or aluminum. Place the edging in the ground at least six inches deep with another two or three inches above the ground to help keep zoysia within its boundaries.

Alternatively, those looking to simply eradicate the grass can instead treat the entire lawn area with a non-selective herbicide. While herbicide treatments usually begin in late summer, to achieve the best results, apply the herbicide while the grass is still green and actively growing.

Also, keep in mind that non-selective herbicides still have the potential to kill other plants on contact. Therefore, use it with caution when applying near garden plants.

Since zoysia is known to regrow, repeated applications will most likely be necessary. Treated areas will eventually turn brown and provided no more zoysia has popped up, it is generally safe to reseed the area within a couple weeks.

Removing Zoysia Grass

For those looking for a non-chemical form of removal, the only option is to remove the grass altogether with a sod cutter. This method works for both large and small areas; however, you may find that smaller areas make the task much easier to accomplish.

When removing zoysia grass this way, include some of the topsoil as well to limit the possibility of re-emergence. Once the grass has been removed, wait a couple weeks (removing any new shoots that appear) and then till the existing topsoil, adding more if needed, and reseed.

Zoysia grass is a great choice for warmer climates and large lawns where it is free to creep about without invading other nearby areas. However, for those that have already been ‘invaded’ by this quick spreader, containing zoysia grass or removing it altogether may be your only recourse.

Note: Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are more environmentally friendly.

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What are invasive plants? How do you keep invasive plants from spreading? Let’s dig in!

Have you ever stopped along a country roadside and dug up a flowering plant near the edge of a drainage ditch, thinking it would make a lovely addition to your garden? Or made a fall wreath from a climbing vine with gorgeous orange berries, then later tossed the wreath into the bushes out behind the garage?

Or maybe you’ve decided to let a piece of the lawn go wild to reduce mowing, or bought a piece of land that once pastured farm animals, but has gone “back to nature” because you keep no livestock.

That’s how I got purple loosestrife, a plague of Asian bittersweet, and acres of a thorny shrub called autumn olive. My “backyard” also sports impermeable hedges of Japanese knotweed (aka “bamboo”) plus multiflora roses and Japanese barberry. All of these plants are listed and regulated as “invasive species” in my home state of New Hampshire.

Once established, these non-native plants become challenging or even impossible to remove before they completely dominate a landscape.

What is an ‘invasive’* plant?

So-called “invasive” plant species generally refer to non-native (aka “alien”) plants that spread rapidly and threaten economic harm or the health of native ecosystems. Most states have enacted laws and regulations forbidding the sale, importation, or propagation of such species.

According to the Nature Conservancy, invasive species cost the U.S. economy $120 billion a year, with over 100 million acres (an area roughly the size of California) suffering from invasive plant infestations.

All plants have some geographical point of origin, an ecosystem where they co-evolved with numerous other plants, animals, and microorganisms over millennia, to the point where they keep one another’s populations in check.

To thrive, plants have evolved many ingenious ways to distribute themselves, among them

• Root systems that spread rapidly and invisibly underground.
• Seedpods that explode when ripe, spitting their seeds far and wide.
• Seeds so light they can float long distances on the wind.
• Seeds carried in the digestive systems of animals that eat their fruits and deposit the seeds some distance away in a little packet of scat that helps fertilize the ground they fall on.
• Seeds with barbs or burrs that stick to the fur of passing animals that transport them to new ground.

Humans took favorite plants with them as they traveled to explore, settle, and exploit new lands, a practice very much with us today. More recently, people have imported non-native species to introduce as ornamental specimens to gardens, to control erosion on disturbed construction sites, or for other purposes. Still other invasives hitched rides on ships transporting agricultural, forestry or other products.

In their new habitats, some (not all) non-native plants spread rapidly, since their new surroundings lack the plant diseases, predators, and strong competition from other plants that kept them under control in their native ecosystems.

Invasives include vines, grasses, herbaceous flowering plants, shrubs, and trees. Invasive vines may strangle native trees and shrubs; grasses, herbaceous species, and shrubs may crowd out native plants. They may reduce biodiversity by strangling or crowding out native species, degrade and destroy habitat, and destroy food webs by providing wildlife with less nutritious seeds or fruits than native plants.

Aquatic/wetland invasives are often spread between and among waterbodies by boats, trailers, and other recreational equipment. These plants may crowd out organisms within the ecosystem, clog waterways, kill or alter the balance of aquatic life.

How to stop the spread of invasive plants

If you’re a landowner, a gardener or farmer, a pond owner, a recreational boating enthusiast, or simply a citizen concerned about the health of your local environment, there are things you can do to help stop the spread of invasive plant species:

• Learn to recognize by sight the invasive species in your area and point them out to others.
• Don’t dig anything from the wild unless you’re certain it’s not invasive (or endangered).
• If you do see an invasive on you own property, dig it up, smother it, or follow instructions from your state’s invasive species program. Severe infestations may require herbicides.
• Plant native shrubs and flowers. They not only provide best food and shelter for native wildlife and protect the environment from spread of harmful weeds, but they are also easier to maintain.

Learn more about invasive plants

National Invasive Species Information Center ( NISIC ): Gateway to invasive species information; covering Federal, State, local, and international sources. To find information about invasive species in your state, type the name of your state into the Search NISIC box at the top left of the page.

*What’s in a name? Fascinating paper on how why scientists are searching for a new, more neutral framework for describing invasive plants.

Crisp Brick Edging

Brick or other hard materials help keep the lawn out of flower beds.

Photo by: Image courtesy of Felder Rushing

Image courtesy of Felder Rushing

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Like so many other aspects of gardening, the key to keeping grass out of your garden beds is to plan ahead and remain vigilant. Once grass gets a foothold in your beds, you’re in store for a tough battle.

“Keeping grass out of garden beds is no easy task,” says master gardener Paul James. “And once it finds its way into your beds, the problem is even more difficult, especially if the grass spreads by underground runners or has a chance to re-seed.”

Many of the most popular border materials may not keep grass out of garden beds unless installed properly. Steel edging is tough, says James, and although it’s a little expensive, it will last for decades, which makes it a genuine bargain. But, at only four inches wide, it isn’t wide enough. “If you pound it deep enough into the ground to keep grasses from creeping under it, there isn’t enough edging above ground to keep grasses from growing over it.”

The solution is a compromise: Drive the edging three inches into the ground, leaving one inch above ground. But be on the lookout for grass that creeps under the edging, and be sure to routinely trim grasses as they grow up and over the edging as well.

If you use a string trimmer, be aware that it may actually sling pieces of grass from the lawn into nearby beds. “Even the smallest piece of Bermuda grass can root very quickly and in no time take over the entire bed,” says James. So, once you finish trimming, go back into those beds and get rid of all the tiny grass pieces.
Steel, plastic or fiberglass edging can be unattractive. “A great way to deal with that problem is to hide the edging with another material such as stone,” James says. He lines a bed with steel edging, then dry stacks small pieces of limestone to hide it. You may have to reset the stones routinely because dry-stacked stones have a tendency to shift. For that same reason, you may want to caution your children against playing on the stones.

If the stones are placed on the ground, you can’t expect them from keeping the grass from growing into your garden beds. That’s exactly what someone did in this bed, and the Bermuda grass is creeping into the bed. This will be a constant battle, one that will cause a lot of frustration. So either place some sort of edging material down first or consider cementing the stones in place. Even mortared stones or bricks may not keep the grass out of your beds unless you first prepare a proper footing, however.

To create a footing, dig a trench roughly four inches deep along the perimeter of your garden bed. Add cement to the trench and stack your first layer of stone or brick. The footing will keep grass from growing under the border, but you’ll still have to keep an eye out for grass that grows up and over. With irregular surfaces, it’s tough to get a string trimmer into nooks and crannies. James recommends removing the grass or leaves manually.

Take care to sow seed outside the beds.

If you sow grass seed, you may accidentally introduce grass into your beds, especially if you use a broadcast spreader, says James. “No matter how careful you are, a few dozen to a few thousand grass seeds will find their way into your beds.”

Consider switching from a broadcast spreader to a drop spreader, which won’t throw the seeds, allowing you to get right up to the edge of a border. If you do use a broadcast spreader, try to get far enough away so that the seeds don’t get thrown into the beds. Come back later and scatter the seeds along the edge of the border by hand.

Finally, consider buying a broadcast spreader that comes equipped with a gizmo like this to prevent the spreader from throwing seed on one side, which then allows you to get right up along the edges of your borders.

Despite your best efforts, it’s entirely possible that grass will still find its way into your garden beds. When that happens, your best bet is to remove the grass by hand, or if you absolutely must, use an herbicide to do the job for you. However, if you use an herbicide, whether organic or synthetic, be careful that you don’t contaminate nearby plants. Avoid spraying on a windy day and consider applying the herbicide with a paintbrush or sponge. Spray the herbicide directly on the brush bristles or sponge first.

Learn how to control these attractive, but potentially invasive, “bad guys” of the ornamental grass world.

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Creeping Lilyturf

Liriope spicata is a low-growing perennial grass. It’s often used as a groundcover or as an edging for walkways and garden beds, but it’s aggressive and spreads fast. Keep an eye on it so it doesn’t become invasive in your garden.

Ornamental grasses are beautiful in the landscape. Tall grasses sway in the wind, adding movement and sound as they softly rustle. Others produce seeds for hungry birds, bear colorful plumes or turn rich shades of gold, purple or red in the fall.

Grasses can shelter wildlife, brighten shady spots, lend height to borders and screen unwanted views.

But some of these good guys of the garden have a dark side, too. Some ornamental grasses can become invasive, crowding out native and cultivated plants.

Liriope spicata, also known as creeping lilyturf or monkeygrass, is a running form of liriope that can become a problem plant. Hardy in zones 4 to 10, it’s low-maintenance, tolerates full sun to part shade, and is often used as a dense groundcover or an edging for walkways and garden beds. It spreads easily—which is great if you’re on a gardening budget, but bad when it gets out of control. It’s so aggressive, it’s now considered an invasive in parts of the southeastern U.S.

Cornelius “Neil” Tarver, an agent for the University of Georgia’s Cooperative Extension Service, says he’s known gardeners who inadvertently bought L. spicata, thinking they were getting Liriope muscari. L. muscari spreads in clumps that grow bigger in diameter, but it doesn’t have L. spicata’s invasive runners.

L. muscari, which is usually hardy in zones 5 to 10, also grows easily in full sun to part shade. It produces violet-purple flowers held above strappy, green leaves in late summer. Later, the plants set blackish berries.

Tarver also says that giant reed grass, Arundo donax, “can be as invasive as bamboo. It’s an attractive, leafy grass and makes a good screen because it grows very tall and grows fast.” Unlike bamboo, giant reed grass dies back in winter, but it’s aggressive enough to overrun a large area in a single growing season, and when it escapes into nearby waterways, it can clog them and disrupt wildlife habitat.

“There’s a variegated variety which is less invasive,” Tarver adds, “because it spreads much more slowly. But it can eventually become a problem too.”

Of course, running bamboo itself is an invasive grass. Some types can grow more than three feet a day, with underground runners that extend 20 feet or more beyond the parent plant. Unless you have plenty of hungry pandas around, bamboo is almost impossible to eradicate. To control it, you’ll need to dig trenches and surround it with concrete, metal, or other barriers—and even those may not contain it. However, if you shop carefully, you can find forms of clumping bamboos that are suitable for growing in containers.

From our newsletters:

We have given quite a bit of thought to which grasses are appropriate for growing in containers. We have not tried all of these, however in coming up with this list we have considered things such as:

• how fast the root system grows
• how well the plant adapts to being pot bound
• height of the plant (most grasses will be smaller in containers)
• how it looks throughout the gardening season

Chasmanthium latifolium

When choosing grasses for containers, it helps to keep in mind that cool season grasses will grow and bloom earlier in the season. With warm season grasses often the main feature is their blooms and since they bloom late in the season, one might want to think of them as late-season containers. Combining warm and cool season grasses in the same container will provide a longer season of interest. Carex flagellifera doesn’t really bloom, but with its tan-colored foliage, provides great contrast.

Want to keep the containerized plants over the winter?

A plant kept in a container over the winter will loose 1 to 2 zones of hardiness. That means that a grass hardy to Zone 3, such as Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ should be able to survive the winter above ground in a pot in Zone 5. If you can’t keep it in a warmer location for the winter, then try packing bags of leaves around and above the pot. Or you could dig a hole in the ground and place the plant in it (it is highly recommended that the plant be removed from the pot first). Be sure to water the plant in so that the soil settles in snugly around the root mass.

Summer Care

Please note that many grasses will flop if they are fertilized, so these are not to be treated with too much TLC!

If you are planning on combining different grasses in the same container they should have the same moisture needs. Please refer to the individual plant’s webpages or to our Grass Comparison Chart to determine which plants will work with each other.

The Festucas are, for the most part, small grasses that work well in containers. However due to their tendency to soak up all the available water before other plants can get their share, we recommend that they be put in their own pot. Also, their nice form and flowers are best appreciated when they are alone in a container.

Here are some grasses we suggest that you might try in containers:

Suggested Cool Season Grasses:

• Achnatherum calamagrostis – large container
• Alopecurus ‘Variegata’ – for part shade
• Andropogon ‘New Wave’ – large container
• Anthoxanthum odoratum (Vanilla grass) – smells wonderful
• Calamagrostis ‘Avalanche’ – fairly large pot
• Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’ – feather reedgrass – large container
• Calamagrostis ‘Overdam’ – fairly large pot
• Carex ‘The Beatles’ – good for part shade
• Carex ‘Beatlemania’ – good for part shade
• Carex davalliana
• Carex dipsacea
• Carex grayi – shade plant
• Carex flagellifera – being a tan-colored plant, it adds wonderful contrast
• Carex ‘Kiwi’ – has kiwi-green colored foliage
• Carex ‘Little Midge’ – small plant, likes moisture and some shade
• Carex ‘Variegata’ – good for a bog container
• Chasmanthium – happy in a slightly shady spot
• Deschampsia ‘Goldtau’ – compact plant
• Festuca Elijah Blue’ – blue foliage, small plant, see paragraph above
• Festuca ‘Select’ – blue foliage, small plant, see paragraph above
• Festuca ‘Boulder Blue’ – blue foliage, see paragraph above
• Festuca idahoensis ‘Siskiyou Blue’ – blue foliage, see paragraph above
• Festuca mairei – medium green foliage, large container, see paragraph above
• Festuca ‘Nefer’ – see paragraph above
• Helictotrichon sempervirens – blue foliage, larger than blue fescues
• Juncus ensifolius – great in a bog container
• Juncus ‘Spiralis’ – great in a bog container
• Juncus ‘Lovesick Blues’ – great in a bog container
• Koeleria vallesiana ‘Mountain Breeze’ – light on the fertilizer; do not overwater
• Molinia ‘Poul Petersen’ – needs a large and deep container
• Molinia ‘Strahlenquelle’ – medium-sized grass
• Molinia ‘Variegata’ – fairly small, variegated
• Sesleria autumnalis – blooms in the fall
• Sesleria albicans – in hot dry conditions, provide some shade and extr water
• Sesleria caerulea – blooms first thing in the spring, foliage is always nice
• Sesleria heufleriana – same as above

Suggested Warm Season Grasses:

• Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’ – large container, blooms very late, nice foliage
• Miscanthus sinensis ‘Yaku Jima’ – large container, blooms late in the season
• Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’ – large container, red-tipped foliage
• Pennisetum alopecuroides – large container, blooms late
• Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’ – large container
• Sporobolus heterolepis – nice draping foliage once it gets older

We would love to receive feedback from those of you who have grown plants in pots. This will help others to be successful.

From J. Cosentino, Boston, MA, Zone 5/6:

“Calamagrostis ‘Overdam’ does wonderfully in pots. I have had 2 plants in a 3’x18″x18″ trough and they have survived the winters and thrived. Miscanthus did well in the summer but did not survive the winter, though I didn’t do anything to protect it. I am going to try the hardier Miscanthus purpurascens this year.”

Grass seems to have no appreciation for where to stop. How deep do I need to go and what materials do I need to stop grass from tunneling under or “jumping” over a border and wreaking havoc in a garden of vegetables or flowers? It can cross a 4-inch ditch and buried 4-inch plastic strip.

Grass plants are some of the most aggressive plants in the world. Typical lawn grasses do not grow under barriers (though weed grass such as Bermuda grass and quackgrass can), so a depth of 1-2 inches should suffice.

The biggest problem is usually that grass grows over the barrier. Grass side shoots or tillers create a mat (good) that can encroach across a 1-foot paver easily (bad). But this occurs slowly. Pavers need to periodically be re-edged with tools or by manually tearing away sod.

A V-shaped cut edge (about 6 inches wide) must be recut yearly to keep roots from crossing the ditch. The lawn side of the cut is vertical to shear the roots. The bed side is at an angle.

Plastic rolls of border edging can be effective for many years. The trick is to mow all the way up to the edging and be sure the soil levels stay the same on both sides of the plastic. If soil gets higher on the either side of the edging, grass roots can reach over it.

How do I get rid of really tiny (under 1/8-inch) black insects all over my garage floor and even in my bedroom? They jump or hop.

Springtails may be having a banner year because of record rains and high pollen levels (a favored food) this spring. They can be whitish to dark gray, with a forked appendage at the rear that enables them to jump. They do not bite and feed primarily on algae, fungi, pollen and decaying organic matter. Usually they live in the soil. Infestations in buildings are associated with dampness, organic matter and mold. Sweep and clean out your garage. Try to make it dryer and improve air circulation.

Chameleon plant

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Nightmare, monster, evil — this plant really brings out the name-calling. And it starts out so cute. Usually sold as a groundcover called chameleon plant because of multicolored foliage, it reverts to solid green leaves, goes on the rampage, and tales of woe begin. Because of myriad tiny roots, it is impossible to dig out or smother. Herbicides often fail for three reasons: Though it looks like it would require an herbicide for a broad-leaved plant, it is actually in the monocot or grass family; a systemic herbicide must be used (glyphosate works, but a strong version is needed, such as 50 percent strength); and repeat applications are a must, especially spaced two weeks apart in late summer and early fall.

Not all lawns need to be filled with straight grass or decorative flowers. You have plenty of options to make your lawn stand out. Ever see a yard filled with long grasses of different colors and textures? These are ornamental grasses, much different from the typical short green grass you’d spend the weekends mowing.

Spice up your yard. Ornamental grasses are the perfect landscaping accent.

What is an Ornamental Grass?

In a nutshell? Ornamental grasses are the prettier and more aesthetically interesting grasses beyond the typical blades that adorn most homes. They grow longer, have different needs, and they come in a variety of colors.

You’ll often find ornamental grasses as one element of a larger landscape plan rather than growing wildly like typical turf. They won’t be the single thing surrounding the property, though that may be the case in the wild.

Think of your property as a blank mural. Decorative grasses are just one of the many creative expressions that make up the whole piece. They’re planted with purpose and positioned for a specific effect, as well as their needs.

Types of Ornamental Grasses

There are four main families of ornamental grass:

• True grasses
• Rushes
• Sedges
• Reeds

Each family has too many subcategories to break down one by one. So, let’s look at some examples based on height. This isn’t an exhaustive list, but it’s a great jumping-off point. All these decorative grasses grow well in the U.S.

If you want a tall perennial ornamental grass that does well in the shade, choose maiden grass, tufted hair, or pampas grass. You also need to consider climate. If you live in a colder region with harsh winters, you may want to avoid planting pampas grass.

Small-sized ornamental grasses (1-3 feet)

Indiangrass

A perennial, this can grow much taller than 3 feet and offers a touch of autumn color to your property. It tends to thrive in more well-drained and low elevation areas and also helps loosen compacted soil. This is an excellent ornamental grass to grow in full sun and in areas with higher temps and drought. Moderate watering is best for Indiangrass.

Liriope

Thi gorgeous grass comes in two forms: clumping, and spreading. It’s hearty, able to grow in full sun and deep shade, sand or clay, and endures drought and heat. Remember: It needs well-drained soil and doesn’t do well when constantly wet at the roots.

Mid-Range ornamental grasses (4-5 feet)

Standing ovation little bluestem

This ornamental grass grows best in full sun and is very drought-tolerant once established. It has a knack for growing in poorer soils, and you can leave it standing in the winter, and cut it back in the early spring. It’s a great grass to add more color to the autumn as it flowers in the late summer through the fall.

Red head fountain grass

Red head fountain grass may remind you of cattails around a pond. It’s perennial and grows in dense clumps with arching leaves. It grows the best in full sun but doesn’t mind some shade. Unlike cattails, it enjoys dry soils and is quite a drought-tolerant once established. It can grow in moist soil – just make sure it’s well-drained.

Large ornamental grasses (6-10 feet)

Pink feather pampas grass

Quite the theatrical and grand ornamental grass, pink feather pampas grass has huge plumes frequently used for interior design. It stands through the winter, and is eco-friendly and drought-resistant – perfect for a low maintenance lawn. It also brings birds to the garden. Pampas needs pruning in late winter or early spring. This is also a good time to dry out the tops and decorate inside with last year’s pampas.

Gold breeze miscanthus

A type of maiden grass, gold breeze miscanthus is one of the most popular types of ornamental grasses. It looks great outdoors and can also be used for interior decorating. You’ll need to cut it back in the early spring to make room for new growth. The plant does best in full sun and moist but well-drained soils.

Caring for Your Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses run the gamut of seasons, styles, colors, and required care.

Colors and seasons

Warm-season ornamental grasses tend to turn different hues as the weather gets colder, so that’s the time to trim them back. If you’re choosing an ornamental grass for indoor decorating, fall is a great time to dry out the heads and bring them inside. You will want to cut back these grasses in the fall or mid to late spring.

Ornamental grasses that thrive in the colder months can be left as is until early spring. If you prune and trim them outside of the proper season, it can permanently damage and sometimes kill the grass.

Divide ornamental grasses for growth

You can save money and enjoy more plants by dividing your ornamental grasses. It’s a way to encourage fresh growth and relocate part of the plant to a new location. It’s crucial to do this in the proper season.

• Warm-weather grasses can be divided in spring or mid-summer.
• Colder-weather grasses can be divided in spring or early fall.
• Evergreen grasses can only be divided in the spring.

Like people, each ornamental grass has its preferences when it comes to food and water. Some will need more fertilizer than others. Some will require more watering to serve as good ground covers.

How to choose ornamental grasses for your yard

Choosing the ornamental grasses that will adorn your property is an exciting process. It’s an opportunity to express yourself and make your yard stand out from the others through unique ground covers. If you’re stumped about which ornamental grasses are best for your lawn and where they would look best, call a landscaping pro.

One of your toughest landscaping decisions: Choosing the ornamental grass varieties that complement each other and your yard.

Main image credit: Pampas Feather Reed Grass / skeeze / Pixabay

Ornamental grasses have become popular additions to the home landscape. Ribbon grass plants are easy to manage varieties that provide color transition and graceful foliage. An important tidbit of ribbon plant information to know before planting is its possible invasiveness. The grass spreads into a thick mat and grows from rhizomes, which can get out of hand and take over unplanned areas. On the plus side, care of ribbon grass couldn’t be easier and the rich carpet of greenery is well worth a little maintenance to keep it in check.

Ribbon Grass Plants

Ribbon grass (Phalaris arundinacea) is a relatively small grass, growing only about a foot high. It has a dense mat of foliage with strappy leaves that begin with pink or white tinged variegation. As the leaves mature, they become striped with green and white, which has earned them the name gardener’s garters. They are also called reed canary grass.

The plants are native to Europe and North America and are hardy in USDA gardening zones 4 to 9. Occasionally the plant will form a small flower in June or July which becomes a grain-like fruit. This is uncommon and the plant is limited to its foliage finery as its focal interest.

How to Plant Ribbon Grass

The plant is best suited for moist soils in partial sun. It can also tolerate drought conditions for short periods of time, but the foliage tends to scorch. The plants are ideal around a pond or water feature, planted in clumps, as container specimens, or along borders.

Ribbon grass plants have virtually no pest or disease problems and can tolerate a wide range of light and moisture conditions. The most important ribbon grass information is its need for well drained soil. Even excessively moist soils will host the plant adequately as long as there is some drainage, so keep this in mind when growing ornamental ribbon grass.

Ribbon grass plants are widely available at nurseries and garden centers. The plants grow well from division every few years. Simply dig up the root zone in the dormant period and cut the plant into sections. Ensure that each piece has several healthy rhizomes and then replant the clumps in designated areas or share them with a friend.

Growing ornamental ribbon grass in containers will help prevent them from spreading.

Care of Ribbon Grass

Rarely will this ornamental grass need upkeep and maintenance. Plants that are in full sun may experience sun scorch. Just cut back the leaves and fertilize and the plant will produce new fresh leaves in a couple of weeks.

In colder zones, mulch around the root zone to protect roots. Apply compost or manure around the base of the plant in early spring to help feed the plant.

Ribbon grass rhizomes may be manually controlled with pulling and digging but tends to spread less invasively if you install the plant in semi-shade areas with plenty of moisture.

Every garden can be enhanced by an ornamental grass. Large or small, a well-chosen grass brings rich texture, contrast and movement to a space and can provide those same elements throughout the four seasons. Grasses are the ‘next step’ for the gardener seeking a professional touch – but thankfully you don’t need to be a professional to grow them!

The Best Ornamental Grass for Every Circumstance

• Best Ornamental Grasses for Privacy
• Best Ornamental Grasses for Small Gardens
• Best Ornamental Grasses for Shade
• Best Ornamental Grasses for Moist Areas
• Best Ornamental Grasses for Color
• Best Ornamental Grasses for Containers
• Best Ornamental Grasses for Four-Season Interest
• Best Ornamental Grasses for Wildlife Habitat
• Best Ornamental Grasses for Meadows

What do we mean by ‘ornamental grass?’

As gardeners, we tend to think of anything with long, narrow foliage as a grass and expect that they must all grow in similar ways, but some of our best known ‘grasses’ are merely grass-like perennials. True ornamental grasses actually include genera within four main families – true grasses, sedges, rushes and reeds – and they have very different cultivation requirements and spread in very different ways.

Where ‘Everillo’ sedge grass might thrive in the moist shade, ‘Morning Light’ maiden grass will be spindly and prone to disease. Where ‘Hameln’ fountain grass will remain in well-behaved clumps along a pathway, you may never see that pathway again if you plant rampant but beautiful ‘Northern’ sea oats against it.

Which is the best ornamental grass for you?

With so many genera and species to choose from, taking a few moments to ensure that the grass you love is a good fit for both your space and your lifestyle can save you time and energy in the long run. As size is most often a first consideration for gardeners, let’s start by looking there first, grouping some of these different species into basic groups according to the tallest possible height they can attain:

Tall Ornamental Grasses for the Garden (6-10′)

Correctly placed, a tall ornamental grass makes an elegant statement and can create privacy and a sense of enclosure in a larger space. However, it is imperative that you ensure you have adequate room for its final size. Many large grasses not only grow up, but their clump size increases in circumference and a few might need judicious staking – especially in a windy area. Paying attention to the final size estimations and adjusting placement accordingly means that you won’t be faced with a difficult move in the future and can just enjoy your grass for years to come.

Here are some favorite tall cultivars of different species to browse:

Ornamental Grass is a no-fuss addition to any perennial garden

Ornamental grasses have become all the rage in landscaping circles. There are good reasons so many gardeners are growing them: they are tough, drought- tolerant plants that add a visual appeal from summer through winter with their attractive leaves and flower heads. Select a grass that’s hardy for your area with the growth habits (bunching or spreading) that you prefer.

When & Where to Plant Ornamental Grass

Light: Ornamental grasses grow and bloom best in full sun. They can tolerate part shade but the flowering will be reduced and the plants may get leggy.

Soil Conditions: Ornamental grasses are not picky about soil conditions. They will grow in poor to fertile soils. However, adding compost to soils will help with the grasses overall vigor.

Spacing: Space ornamental grass 1 to 3 feet apart depending on the variety. If you want your grasses to form a solid wall of greenery, plant closer together. Spreading grasses will fill in faster than clumping type grasses, so they can be planted further apart.

Planting: Plant ornamental grasses in spring so they have time to get established before winter. You can also plant in fall in warmer parts of the country, where winters aren’t as severe.

How to Grow Ornamental Grass Throughout the Season

Growth Habit: Ornamental grasses vary widely in their growth habits. Short clumping, mounding grasses grow only 1 foot tall and wide. Tall, spreading varieties can grow 7 of more feet tall and spread by underground rhizomes. Generally, most ornamental grasses are found in the 1 to 6 foot tall and 1 to 3 foot wide range.

Staking: Ornamental grasses grown in full sun without too much nitrogen fertilizer should be sturdy enough to stand tall on their own. However, those taller grasses with large flower heads grown in part shade may have weaker stems and are more likely to flop over in the wind. Also, grasses grown with too much nitrogen fertilizer will stimulate tall, weak stems. Tie these tall grasses to stakes in summer to support them when they have large flower heads in fall.

Watering:Ornamental grasses are generally drought tolerant once established. However, it’s good to water young grass transplants frequently until they get established. It’s also important to grow the right grass type for your region. Grasses that require more water may not be good choices for drier areas of the country.

Fertilizing: Other than mixing in some compost when planting, and adding an annual 1 to 2 inch thick layer of compost each spring, ornamental grasses don’t require extra fertilizer. If you’re growing ornamental grasses on very poor soil, consider adding a small amount of an organic 5-5-5 fertilizer in spring.

Trimming & Pruning: The beauty of ornamental grasses is their fall flower heads that will last into spring. Leave the flower heads in winter to enjoy or cut a few to bring indoors and add to your flower arrangements.

When you cut back your grasses depends on if they are cool or warm-season grasses. Cool-season grasses such as fescue, ribbon grass, feather grass and northern sea oats should be cut back in early spring before new growth starts. Cut back the plant so about 1/3rd of the old growth remains.

Warm-season grasses, such as Japanese blood grass, maiden grass, and fountain grass, should be trimmed in fall if you don’t want to save the grass heads, or mid spring before new growth starts. Cut these back to the ground. Use a hedge trimmer or hand pruners to cut back your grasses. Some, such as Miscanthus grass, have sharp grass blades, so wear gloves as well. Before cutting the grasses back, wrap a rope or Velcro tie around the bundle of grass and cut below the wrap. This makes it easier to gather the grass and move to the compost pile.

Mulching: Ornamental grasses benefit from a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark mulch added in spring. This will help maintain soil moisture and prevent weeds from getting established between the grasses.

‘Blackhawks’ Big Bluestem Grass is a cultivar of a fine native prairie grass that has taken the gardening world by storm. Foliage emerges dark green, shifting to a deep purple that d.

Annuals and Perennials

Ornamental grasses are not to be tread upon. Rather, they are decorative grasses, some of which grow several feet high. Some ornamental grasses are grown for uniqueness of the plant, while others, like Hare’s Tail, produce attractive or colorful “plumage”. They add a striking contrast to your landscape.

Try ornamental grasses in your flower gardens, along a pond or reflecting pool, in a rock garden, amongst flowering shrubs, or anywhere else where they will add to the uniqueness of your garden design.

Some of the most common varieties include:

Festuca Glauca Blue

You can find both both annual and perennial ornamental grasses. Varieties range from just a foot tall. to several feet tall. Ornamental grasses have attractive leaves, or blades, and are often highlighted with striking, colorful flowerheads.

Tip: Try drying ornamental grasses for use indoors in dried arrangements.

Ornamental Grass are grown from seed. Ornamental grass seeds usually directly seeded into your flower garden. They can also be started indoors for transplanting later.

If planting outdoors, sow seeds after the soil has begun to warm in the spring. Sow seeds early in the season and cover lightly with soil. Plant spacing varies, depending upon variety. Check the seed packet for proper spacing.

For indoor starts, grow them in flats, beginning four to six weeks before setting them out.

How to Grow Ornamental Grass:

Ornamental Grass plants are very easy to grow. The plants prefer full sun. Soil and moisture requirements can vary by variety. In general, keeping the soil moist and well fertilized, will promote the healthiest plants. To help you remember, fertilize them when you fertilize your lawn. Ditto with water.

Once your Ornamental Grass are established, they will grow well until frost. Annual varieties will need to be replanted each year. Sometimes seeds drop to reseed the space.

Harvest plant stalks and flowerheads for indoor decorating in the fall. Hang upside down to dry in a cool, well ventilated area out of direct sunlight.

Note: Perennial varieties can be somewhat invasive. Without a border, they can spread to your lawn. We recommend using border edging 12″ deep, to keep them from spreading.

Insect and Disease:

Ornamental Grass can experience molds and fungus similar to lawn grasses, especially in wet weather. This is most common when plants are overcrowded. Insect problems are infrequent.

If insect or disease problems occur, treat early with organic or chemical insect repellents and fungicide.

Water will help you grow a lawn.
See more green living pictures.

In this article, we’ll show you how to start and grow the lawn that’s right for you.

We begin with suggestions for how to plan a landscape and lawn, including sketching out a map of how you will use the space available. You’ll want to consider what activities you expect to take place on your lawn and plan accordingly.

We’ll show you how movement enhances every lawn and landscape. Follow these tips and plan for the movement of light, wind, water and traffic across your lawn. We’ll also show you how lawn accents can attract visitors and add charm to the landscape.

Plant and grass selection is as important as any other step in creating your lawn. You’ll want to select grasses, foliage, ground cover and other plants that suit your climate and soil conditions. Our recommendations for grass selection will put you on the right track in selecting for soil moisture, light availability, and expected growth heights. You may want to use various ornamental grasses to accentuate your lawn — we’ll show you how.

With your planning done and plant selections complete, you’ll need to choose the method you’ll use to start your lawn. We’ve provided helpful advice on using seed, sod, and plugs, including the benefits and possible drawbacks of each method.

Lastly, we’ll show you how to cultivate and propagate ground cover to complete your lawn.

On the next page, you’ll learn about preparing for lawn design.

For more information on lawn care and related topics, try these:

• Lawn Problems: We explore the most common reasons why lawns struggle.
• Gardening: Make a garden part of your home’s landscape.
• Types of Lawnmowers: Which mower is best for your lawn?

The best lawns fit seamlessly into a home’s landscape. A careful design can make sure your lawn perfectly supports the other elements of your home’s surroundings.

Any beautifully designed landscape may be attractive to view, but if it doesn’t accommodate the needs of the people who use the property, the landscape design is not practical. Before making a plan for your space, discuss with the members of your household the needs and plans for use of the landscape.

Make a list of desired functions before making the actual plan. The following functions are some that you may want to consider: sitting/dining area, clothesline, barbecue, dog pen, wind protection, vegetable garden, compost, lawn recreation, children’s play area, and firewood storage.

Draw a simple sketch showing the general location of the elements needed in relation to the house and one another. For instance, if an outdoor eating area is needed, sketch it near the kitchen, and firewood storage should be convenient to the door nearest the fireplace.

The relationship diagram will help you in the beginning steps of putting a plan together. In addition, decide the level of maintenance you are willing to meet. Your plan should reflect the amount of maintenance time you’re interested in spending in the yard and garden.

If your house is visible from a road, you have a public view area. Think of your house, or front door, as the focal point of a picture. You’ll want to frame the view, to draw attention to your house. Typically, foundation plantings are set at the base of the house to create a transition between the house and the landscape. Foundation plantings can be a simple mix of small evergreens and flowering shrubs, ornamental trees, ground covers, and herbaceous plants. Consider shade when choosing trees; deciduous trees will shade the house in the summer while allowing sunlight in during the winter. Be sure to screen service areas — trash cans, laundry lines, and the like — from the public area.

You’ll want to develop other sections of your landscape for outdoor living. You may decide to incorporate a service area — toolshed, doghouse, clothesline, potting area. It should be convenient to the house yet tucked away from public view and private entertaining. If children will be using the landscape, plan for a children’s play area: A swing set and sand box may be in your plans. You’ll want this area set aside but in full view for easy supervision. Separate the children’s area from the eating and entertaining area with a low border, and you’ll get a feeling of separate outdoor rooms.

A private entertaining and eating area is among the most common space needs of a well-planned landscape. Design it as you would a comfortable room in your house. The size of the area should be determined by the number of people who will be accommodated. A patio or terrace with adjacent lawn for occasional spillover works well. Privacy from neighbors as well as shade can be achieved through the proper selection and placement of screening materials and a canopy of trees.

Create a Functional Sketch

When you plan for outdoor activities and traffic patterns, related functions should be grouped together. For example, parking and entrance to the house go together. With a sketch pad, carefully plot the relationship between the indoor space — windows and doors — with the outdoor space — public, private, and service. From the list of functional areas you need, designate space to accommodate each function in your landscape design picture.

On the next page, we’ll show you how to create the plan for your lawn.

For more information on lawn care and related topics, try these:

• Lawn Problems: We explore the most common reasons why lawns struggle.
• Gardening: Make a garden part of your home’s landscape.
• Types of Lawnmowers: Which mower is best for your lawn?

Striking foliage, plumes of blossoms, and motion — ornamental grasses are rewarding landscape plants.

Tall varieties make great accent plants; arching and spilling varieties are at home in a casual garden. There are even small varieties for the rock garden or a container.

Grasses combine well with other plants and can soften a wall or walkway. Plus, grasses have something to add that few other plants can — motion. They sway in the breeze, adding movement along with sound as they rustle in the breeze.

Types of grasses

Most are perennials, but many varieties are grown as annuals because of their natural growth or lack of hardiness for this area. Grasses can be clumping or spreading. Be careful with spreading varieties which can expand rapidly via above or below ground stems. Some spreading varieties are considered invasive.

Like lawn grasses, ornamental grasses are either cool season or warm season. Cool season varieties will peak in the spring; whereas warm season varieties will take time to reappear in the spring, grow during the summer, and peak in the fall.

Grasses can range in height from 6 inches up to 15 feet! So, do your homework before selecting one.

Grasses have flowers

They may not be traditional flowers, but flowers and seed heads can be showy and colorful. They last for weeks and many will provide interest through the winter. Foliage also varies in color and adds interesting texture to the garden.

Growing conditions

Most varieties will need well drained soil and full sun. Keep the plants well watered for the first few weeks, but after that, these plants are drought tolerant. You can fertilize when you first plant them, but typically, they need very little fertilizer.

Maintenance

Grasses need very little. Since most varieties look great in winter, don’t cut them back until early spring. Some varieties may need to be cut with hedge shears or a weed eater with a brush-cutting blade. Don’t worry about hurting them – they are a fearless plant!

Problems

Grasses have few insect or disease issues. The biggest problem can be the grass itself if it is the wrong type and planted in the wrong place. Grasses grow fast, some approaching full size in a single season. So, be sure to consider the mature size of the variety before siting it.

For a small, cool season grass, consider blue fescue “Elijah Blue,” or a blue oat grass “Sapphire.” Named the Perennial Plant of the Year for 2001, “Karl Foerster” is a nice warm season feather reed grass with purple flowers. Fountain grasses such as “Little Bunny” or “Karley Rose” have large rose-colored plumes that provide fall color and winter interest.

There are many more to choose from, including larger grasses that can stand alone or tall enough to form a privacy screen. Several varieties are part of the Parker F. Scripture Botanical Gardens.

Ornamental grasses are perennial favorites for garden designers. They’re low-maintenance beauties that provide all-season garden interest through their varied colors, textures and forms.

What’s the best way to use ornamental grasses in a design? It depends on a gardener’s objectives, but here are a few tips.

Tips for Using Ornamental Grasses

• Use select grasses with a variety of perennials, bulbs and shrubs.
• Make sure that these companion plants are culturally and aesthetically compatible.
• Achieve contrast and enhance sensory appeal by varying heights, colors, textures, and forms.
• Site a mass ornamental grass planting on a slope for erosion control
• Layer the ornamental grasses in beds and borders, with tallest in back, shortest in front. In a long border, gardeners can also vary the height and plant type linearly.
• Plant in drifts, or mass for a soft-textured “cloud” effect. Delicate grasses sway and rustle with the slightest breeze, creating sound and motion interest.
• Use as specimen plants or focal points against a background of evergreens, or against a wall.
• Remember that ornamental grasses (especially deciduous varieties) are constantly changing with the seasons, from delicate new green foliage in spring to the crisp tan, gold or scarlet leaves of winter. Seed heads and flowers will also contribute to varying looks throughout the year.
• Plant grasses in odd-numbered groups of 3 to 5 or more.
• For a naturalistic look, inter-plant grasses with their natural companion perennials
• Use ornamental grasses to influence mood. Repeating one variety can create a calming rhythm; loose drifts impart an informal feel
• Grasses grow fast, but mature forms, especially in larger plants, will change drastically form winter to spring as the plants are cut back in anticipation of the new growing season.

Ornamental Grass Maintenance Considerations

When planting ornamental grasses, there are a few things gardeners should keep in mind.

• Grasses are either warm season or cool season. Use the appropriate species for the situation.
• Some grasses grow in clumps, others are spreaders. Spreading types are sometimes invasive. Either limit these varieties to containers, or use barriers such as metal edging to keep them from migrating.
• Adding a one foot wide mulched strip in a planting bed (between the grass planting and the lawn) makes it easy to keep volunteer shoots under control and keep plants from merging.
• Don’t cut back deciduous varieties too early in the cold season. That destroys winter interest

The above tips can guide gardeners in the correct ways to use ornamental grasses in garden design. Properly used, these elegant plants can add grace and beauty to a gardener’s landscape for many years to come.

Today I want to talk about how to get the most from using ornamental grasses in your garden/landscape.

When you go into a plant retailer these days, you will be offered a very big selection of ornamental grasses. The big question is which variety do you choose and importantly will perform outstandingly well for you? Because the grades offered are often quite small and its very hard visually at this early stage to see any distinguishing features, but I can assure you that some varieties are definitely better performers than others.

You can go into any town or city throughout the country and see ornamental grasses, which have been used in public gardens, parks, traffic islands, carparks, and of course in homeowner’s gardens.

Most of the time the grasses look rather average to awful – that’s because the wrong varieties have been used, for Waikato gardens.

If you go down to the South Island around Queenstown and Wanaka regions, the grasses are beautiful and look really stunning. A lot of the southern grass varieties perform very poorly in our warmer/more humid northern districts. I say to my clients, most of the time when you see an attractive garden containing ornamental grasses then it’s probably been planted only a couple of years ago.

Don’t let me put you off using ornamental grasses, I certainly think they have their place in the modern low-maintenance garden, but you need to select the best performing varieties.

There are some new Aussie-bred varieties of ornamental grasses that are really amazing, and won’t let you down, with the foliage going brown and scruffy and looking like it needs a damn good comb. The Australian nursery industry has for some time been putting a lot of time and effort into breeding outstanding performing ornamental grasses that really hold up in the most severe droughts, strong winds and heavy frosts. Today I want to mention just a few varieties that I have had good experience with and found to be extremely reliable performers, so that you can possibly look at using them in your garden.

LOMANDRA TANIKA – a truly great new variety, with lush green foliage, and the foliage hangs gracefully over in an arch. I have found that in our great Waikato climate, the ideal spacing is about 1 plant per square metre; this allows you to see the plant in its full shape. Many landscapers plant at a lot closer spacing, and within a short time the plants look all bunched up, and so there is no style or form to the grass. In fact last year I took every second plant out, in our garden, and the resulting plants left are looking so much more attractive now. I work on the plants getting to about 90cm x 1.0m wide. Also, I recommend you feed them 2 x per year, Sept and April – then they stay a beautiful dark green.

LOMANDRA NYALLA – another of my favourites- this attractive blue-toned selection provides a graceful versatile plant. This one has a more upright growth habit than Tanika, and both varieties make wonderful contrasting companion plants. Both grass varieties benefit from a foliage trim about every 5 years, and Nyalla provides lasting foliage for cut flower arrangements. This variety I have found gets to about 80cm x 80cm. Both grass varieties will grow equally well in shade or sunny, hot dry gardens. As I pointed out with Tanika – don’t plant them too close together – I would allow 90cm x 90cm spacing for best results.

LOMANDRA KATRINAS DELUXE – A super variety if you want a lush green jungle grass look, say at the back of a border, where you may want a bit more height or bulk. This grass has a wider more strappy leaf, and I have some at home under some palms, it does look really effective in groupings. I would allow 1.2m x 1.2 m wide, and just as good a performer as the other previous two, in shade or in full sun.

LOMANDRA LIME TUFF – outstanding small grass, that is super lush green and great for where a smaller variety is needed, getting to 45cm x 45cm. This is one of my favourites, and on mass Lime Tuff looks fantastic. As with the other grasses I have listed, this one is super drought tolerant, and holds itself very happily to all the weather elements.

By Borst Landscape & Design , Neighbor

Jul 25, 2013 10:08 a m ET

Think about a gorgeous bouquet. There’s a lot more to it than just colorful flowers thrown together. There are stalks with leaves and sprigs of grasses to create contrasts in height, color, and texture. Then, they are arranged to create a pleasing overall shape. You can apply these same ideas to your garden by planting varieties of ornamental grasses among your flowers and shrubs.

Start off by deciding how you want to incorporate ornamental grasses. Tall, thin plants can make great privacy screens. If your landscaping has a lot of thick, solid walls and borders, you can soften its appearance with a lush spray of grass or small puffs edging a walkway or stairs. Remember to create contrast with your other plants. Plant some tall grasses among your short shrubs, and thin, spiky grasses among broad-leafed flowers.

You also need to determine when you would like your grasses to reach their peak of growth. Cool season grasses will start growing early and appear most colorful in spring. After blooming in early summer, their growth slows and their color gradually fades. Depending on the species, they may die in the middle if not maintained properly, or stay around through winter with little effort. Warm season grasses often don’t appear until early summer and will flower even later. Some may even be in bloom in the fall. Find out when your other plants will blossom, and plant your grasses to coordinate appropriately.

Don’t know what to plant? Here are some suggestions:

Feather Reedgrass: This popular plant can grow up to six feet tall in full sun. It is a cool season grass and can keep its shape over winter.

Little Bluestem: Although it is considered a warm season grass, this plant is beautiful all year. It starts a blue-green color, but changes to purple, red, and orange in the fall. It grows to three feet tall in full sun.

Fountaingrass: Well maintained, it forms a large, full spray with flexible plumes. It is a warm season grass best suited for full sun and well-drained soil.

Cordgrass: One of the lesser-used ornamental grasses, this species thrives in full sun and wet soil, even growing next to streams. It can reach seven feet tall and blooms in the summer.

Northern Sea Oats: A warm season grass that grows up to three feet tall, this plant grows in either full sun or part shade. It is prized for its arching stems and beautiful seed heads.

Blue Fescue: Since it only grows up to a foot tall and stays in neat mounds, it is perfect for edging. It is a cool season plant that likes full sun or part shade.

There are countless ways to incorporate ornamental grasses in your landscape. Try cultivating a knot garden. Use tall grasses to shade certain plants. If you choose a species known to spread, you can grow it in a container on your patio. With careful planning, ornamental grasses can transform your garden into a masterpiece.

About ground cover plants

Dwarf Nana – Nandina Domestica

Nandina domestic Nana is considered a dwarf diversity of the Japanese Holy Bamboo or sacred bamboo. Unlike bamboo, Nana domestica isn’t destructive or invasive.
Nanas grow to about 30cm in height and 30cm in width. The plant changes colour from red to lighter green while the plant matures.
Nanas grow well in full sun and semi-shaded areas, it tolerates most soils as well as dry conditions.
They will make an excellent decorative colourful statement within any garden.

Star Jasmine – Trachelospermum jasminoides

One of the most versatile plants, star jasmine can be grown as a climber or ground cover, and is smothered in white perfumed flowers in spring and summer. It is slow growing early on, but will flourish once established, spreading extensively.
Star Jasmine is a thick ground cover and looks exquisite trailing over walls or mass planted in garden beds.
Climbers will be support provided, and should be pruned to keep their appearance neat and tidy.

Bali stripe mondo grass

Swamp Foxtail – Pennisetum Alopecuroides

The Swamp Foxtail grass is one of the most ornamental native landscape grasses because of it’s beautiful flowers, the flower resembles a fox’s tail, hence the referred name. it is a tall green fine foliaged grass, which is best grown in full sun to light shade.
The height of the grass can reach 1-1.5m tall with the width expanding 1m in diameter.

Green Mat rush Grass- Lomandra Hystrix

Mat rush grass is a native grass found near on in creeks on sandy soils and river stones.
It is a very useful plant for revegetation and erosion control.
The grass can grow up to 2m in height, and can be grown in full sun or part shade.